how do you care for a flock of mareep/mareeps evolutions? is it safe to have a singular mareep? can they be indoor pets? any extra advice?

I’ll answer the simplest question first: unlike the animal sort of sheep, yes, mareep can live with just a trainer (although it’s better off in a team—which, incidentally, doesn’t necessarily have to include another member of the mareep line).

What they can’t entirely do is live indoors. Or, more accurately, they can’t really live in human living quarters. Human spaces are often too small or too crowded to suit a mareep’s needs. Instead, they often need a yard at minimum (a field preferably) with fresh grass or plants for them to eat. Furthermore, they’ll also need a barn (a small one with just enough room for a single mareep to move about without bumping into walls will do) lined with hay for resting at night and when the weather is too cold/wet for a mareep to be outside. It’s a good idea to include some sort of heating system for this barn, but in that case, space is of the utmost importance. For a single mareep, you may need to build a barn roughly the size of an average living room or larger. (The actual, specific recommendation is about sixteen to twenty feet. That would be per pen, if you plan on keeping multiple mareep. Every mareep needs its own pen within the barn you construct, and don’t forget a walkway for mareep to safely travel down as well.) Keep hay away from the heater, and keep the barn itself well stocked with water and food. And of course, try to avoid letting your mareep evolve inside the barn, as the initial shock of changing forms may cause it to bump into walls (or the heater).

Beyond that, mareep are strictly vegetarians, but they can essentially self-feed so long as they have access to fresh grass. Hay will do during the winter months, and if you’d really like to pamper your mareep, salad greens will work as well. Alternatively, there’s always mareep kibble if you’re a trainer traveling through areas where there isn’t much greenery to eat. If you feed your mareep kibble, it’s important to offer plenty of water, as kibble really isn’t as hydrating as greens are.

In terms of grooming, while you can safely bathe an ampharos and while you can use a showerhead and a washcloth with warm soap to handle a flaaffy, it’s not recommended that you groom mareep in the same manner. A washcloth to the face, ears, and legs to clean off dirt is fine, but the wool stores quite a bit of electricity and shouldn’t be soaked for this reason. (If your mareep is caught in the rain, herd it into its barn and turn on the heater to let it dry off naturally. Don’t worry about dirt or mold; these tend to be burned off via electric current eventually.) However, mareep absolutely need to be sheared every so often, as the wool will continuously grow until it interferes with a mareep’s wellbeing. Thus, mareep should be sheared twice a year. Most mareep trainers tend to do it either just before winter (as that will be right when mareep are herded into barns on a long-term basis, so the shearing gives them a little more space to move) or early spring (just before mating season) or both.

There are two ways to shear a mareep, though. The first way is to do it the way it’s done in the wild, and that’s through engaging in regular pokémon battles to burn off extra wool via mareep’s electric moves. If you’d prefer to keep the wool or if you’d simply prefer a quicker shearing, there’s the second way: shave it off. Many less confident trainers hire breeders to do it for them, but if you have a steady hand, a calming voice, and a pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves, it’s not that bad of a task. It’s just that the rubber is important. Wear not only rubber gloves but also rubber overalls—essentially rubber on anything you think might come in contact with your mareep’s wool.

Additionally, use mareep shears, not a regular set of shears. This is a device that collects electricity directly from your mareep’s wool and channels it through a set of combs and blades in order to essentially shave your sheep. (It’s also cased in a protective rubber coating to prevent that electricity from going anywhere other than the motor.) This device should help discharge your mareep wool and make it safer for handling.

To prepare, be sure to keep your mareep dry for ten hours prior to shearing, and don’t feed or water it either, not only to ensure that they’re comfortable during the shearing but also to avoid any nervous … mishaps. Thus, it’s a good idea to shear it first thing in the morning, then give it a proper breakfast as a reward for good behavior. Beyond that, shearing is a rather easy process for mareep because they’re actually more obedient and a bit more sentient than their animal “cousins,” and thus, you can simply tell yours how to sit and what you’re doing. Communicate frequently throughout the process, but hold your mareep steady. Firmly, not harshly. Yes, you will need to pull its skin to shear the wool off as closely and cleanly as possible, but couple everything you do with soothing words of encouragement. Shear as closely to the skin as your mareep can tolerate but don’t dig. Let the shearer do the work, then give your mareep a few oran berries and keep it inside for the next two days to heal.

Leave the wool out on the ground for a few hours after shearing if you plan on using it for electronics. Alternatively, leave it out for a day if you plan on spinning it into a sort of yarn that can glow in the dark for a few months. (The yarn also has a slight metallic effect, even after it loses its glow.) Whatever you do, do not wash clothing you’ve made with mareep wool in a washer until a couple months after it’s lost its glow. Hand-wash it, as you could risk frying the inside of your washing machine.

The shearing process can be done in about thirty minutes per mareep. Some trainers like to keep their flocks close (mareep somehow find entertainment in watching the process), but if you choose to do it with the flock out to field, it’s a good idea to keep a growlithe or other dog-like pokémon nearby to make sure they don’t wander. Sheep growlithe aren’t exactly mandatory for mareep care, but they’re very handy.

And of course, the shearing process becomes completely unnecessary as a mareep advances in stages. The wool stops growing in the flaaffy stage, and it falls out altogether when the pokémon becomes an ampharos. However, once they reach their ampharos stage, you’ll instead want to maintain their skin health. Bathe them regularly and apply moisturizers afterwards. Avoid their jewels, as these are actually electrified. (Don’t worry. They’ll shine just the same, even without needing to be polished. Ampharos will generally care for these jewels themselves.)

Beyond that, as always, be sure to train for at least an hour a day if you plan on competing in battles, tournaments, and so forth, but it (and playtime in general) isn’t entirely necessary if you plan on letting your mareep out into a field. They’ll generally amuse themselves (although it’s still recommended that you give them daily affection and care). If your mareep lives in a yard, though, yes, it’s a good idea to walk it. It won’t need a leash (mareep will generally follow you wherever you go), but they seem happier with a growlithe or other dog-like pokémon for companionship.

Best of luck!

Hi Bill! I recently found out that my umbreon is pregnant, and I thought you would be able to give me advice on what I should do to prepare for the babies?

vampire-crimson:

bills-pokedex:

PUPPY-PROOF. EVERYTHING.

It doesn’t matter if you think, “Oh, there couldn’t possibly be a way for an eevee puppy to get in there.” No. No, anonymous. You absolutely must puppy-proof everything. Put locks on the cabinets where you store your household chemicals (and be sure that it’s a cabinet well above floor level). Invest in gates. Invest in gates for the gates. Cover your wall sockets. Secure your valuables and fragile items. Consider bolting your furniture to the floor while you’re at it. Place your wires well out of reach and cover them with repel. And if you happen to have any important papers that you don’t want to see ripped to shreds, lock them away. Eevee puppies are extremely curious and tenacious. They will cause mischief if they can find a way to do so.

Other than that, simply ensure that the mother has a safe, secure place to lay her egg(s), as well as plenty of food and water, and perhaps watch videos on how to assist in delivering and caring for eggs. (Or perhaps don’t do the latter, as the mother may become territorial while her egg is incubating, and in any case, most mother pokémon will know how best to care for their young. Umbreon especially are prone to biting if you get too close to either her eggs or newborn pups.)

Best of luck!

Bill are you okay? You have some Eevee stories to tell us?

Far, far too many, my dear reader.

There was, for example, that one time when an eevee puppy nearly caused the entire storage system for Kanto and Johto to crash. (Then I developed a failsafe system, so no, readers, your pokémon are still safe.)

Then there were the thirty-six separate instances of eevee puppies nearly getting electrocuted or poisoned, despite the fact that I had locked what had once been my household chemical cupboards and hidden my wires.

Then I discovered the fact that “pokémon-proof food bins” are not actually eevee puppy proof (although to be fair, my kadabra and clefairy helped in that case).

And finally, there was that time when an eevee puppy triggered a rather unfortunate series of events that culminated in what many of you know as the Clefairy Incident.

So yes. Puppy-proof everything.

Hi Bill! I recently found out that my umbreon is pregnant, and I thought you would be able to give me advice on what I should do to prepare for the babies?

PUPPY-PROOF. EVERYTHING.

It doesn’t matter if you think, “Oh, there couldn’t possibly be a way for an eevee puppy to get in there.” No. No, anonymous. You absolutely must puppy-proof everything. Put locks on the cabinets where you store your household chemicals (and be sure that it’s a cabinet well above floor level). Invest in gates. Invest in gates for the gates. Cover your wall sockets. Secure your valuables and fragile items. Consider bolting your furniture to the floor while you’re at it. Place your wires well out of reach and cover them with repel. And if you happen to have any important papers that you don’t want to see ripped to shreds, lock them away. Eevee puppies are extremely curious and tenacious. They will cause mischief if they can find a way to do so.

Other than that, simply ensure that the mother has a safe, secure place to lay her egg(s), as well as plenty of food and water, and perhaps watch videos on how to assist in delivering and caring for eggs. (Or perhaps don’t do the latter, as the mother may become territorial while her egg is incubating, and in any case, most mother pokémon will know how best to care for their young. Umbreon especially are prone to biting if you get too close to either her eggs or newborn pups.)

Best of luck!

{Apologies for the walls of text recently. Evidently, trying to skirt the system by logging into Tumblr via mobile browser instead of downloading the app no longer works unless you remember to code all your paragraphs in Proper HTML. 🙃 Will download the app later, so that shouldn’t happen again.}

Hey Bill, Diabetic Gardevoir Anon again. Thank you for your advice. Me and my Gardevoir have recently gone on a new Diet and Exercise plan (I’m doing it with her to support her). She certainly seems happier and isn’t being too fussy about her Insulin shots. Do you know any good Restaurants/Fitness Centers in the Celadon City Area i can take her to to help keep up this healthy lifestyle? ALso, any suggestions on Ice Cream substitutes? SHe really misses it.

You’re welcome, anonymous.

To answer your first question, you may wish to try the Celadon Gym. They may specialize in grass-types, but they’re willing to work with any trainer and pokémon who needs help. They may also recommend other fitness centers in the area that specialize in physical fitness for delicate psychic pokémon such as gardevoir. (My own knowledge is unfortunately limited, not only because I’m not local but also because, when I had been … I wasn’t exactly familiar with local fitness centers, to put it lightly.)

As for restaurants, most are generally diabetic-friendly. Just be sure to choose lighter options and skip dessert.

Finally, regarding ice cream, you may not have to skip the real thing. Pay attention to nutritional labels and choose ice creams with lower total carbohydrates. This translates into lower sugars, so the lower your carbs, the better. Additionally, you’ll still need to be aware of her blood sugar levels and what she’s already eaten before giving her ice cream. Of course, don’t forget the portion size. Let your gardevoir enjoy ice cream, but don’t let her overdo it. After all, just because you have a dietary restriction doesn’t mean you have to give up the things you love; you just have to do a bit more self-checking and a lot of label reading before you jump in and indulge. And believe me: as much of an annoyance as that sounds, all of that is actually not that bad once you get used to doing it.

Best of luck!

Hey Bill, because Pikachu evolves into Alohan Raichu due to it’s diet in Aloha, theoretically could a pokemon evolve into a new form anywhere if their diet is changed?

It’s possible! Pokémon are very adaptable in ways that frequently surprise the research community. For another example, who would have thought that some pokémon will evolve if they know a particular move or if a metal coat and a lot of radiation were applied to them? Pikachu isn’t even the only one that evolves into a different form thanks to its diet, either; sylveon is just an eeveelution that evolves after being fed delicious treats (and, all right, petted and groomed enough too).

The point is, new and fascinating evolutionary requirements for already discovered pokémon are found all the time, and just when you’ve found what you’d think is the most unusual, a new, more interesting one is discovered. So who knows? Perhaps goldeen will evolve into an undiscovered pokémon after eating an entire box of tea biscuits.

As a disclaimer, I am not encouraging anyone to feed their goldeen an entire box of tea biscuits.

I’m surprised you’re adding that disclaimer on your own. —LH

Well, it needed to be said. Start with one tea biscuit, then work your way up. Starting with the whole box at once is far too ambitious for a goldeen. —Bill

Bill… —LH

my flygon and i were traveling around through the sky and we came to a little village to relax and regroup as we hadnt found any pokemon centers for a while. Well, this village had never seen a pokeball before… nor a flygon but thats a different story. they were mystified that i had 6 pokemon with me, and even more so by the device that kept them carryable at my side. are villages like this common?

arsonist-catnip:

bills-pokedex:

They’re not exactly common, but they’re not unheard of, either. This world is a vast place, and while humans have been fairly ambitious in the past, in recent years, one could say we’ve done an excellent job at not colonizing every strip of land we’ve ever come across. That is to say, these sorts of villages do indeed exist in the plural, in the most remote parts of the world. These are places such as the Amazon rainforest or some parts of the Orange Islands that are typically too difficult for a person to reach, even with the assistance of a pokémon.

That is to say, it’s rather impressive that you’ve found these people, anonymous.

Actually bill, there’s an entire region of these people, known as Ransei. As far as I know, they remain undisturbed, and the industrial revolution, for some reason, is only restricted to a single part of the region. Very odd indeed.

Ransei is actually one of the ancient regions of Japan. It hasn’t existed for a number of centuries now, since its borders were redrawn during one of the last imperial ages. The inhabitants of its modern-day counterparts actually do have plenty of access to pokémon centers and poké balls, and some of the former are actually among the most advanced in the world.

To be fair, though, Ransei texts and histories have become rather popular as of late in Unova, and I’m told it’s led to some … rather unfortunate misconceptions about how we live today. (For starters, no, not many of us walk about in kimono, nor do many of us actually own samurai swords … not that a number of us belonged to the right class to own one. But that’s all a different story.)

{Edit: Post edits brought to you by … the mun finding the Ransei post, haha. It’s here, for those curious about the world of this blog. Really need to do a full write up. http://bills-pokedex.tumblr.com/post/149066503306/hey-bill-ive-been-doing-a-lot-of-reading-on-the#notes }

Hey Bill, is Whitney still training normal types after the discovery of Fairy types? Or did she change type specialty like Jasmine did when Steel types were discovered and her Onix evolved into a Steelix?

Actually, no. According to interviews, she says it’s because she still finds normal-types cute and criminally underrated, but if you ask me, it’s probably because switching types would mean she’d be forced to give up her ungodly signature pokémon.