Tag: Anonymous

Hiya Bill! Did you hear about the little wind-up Pokemon Toys? I think their called Rumble Toys, and they’re so cute! I finally got my first Starter Set (The Oshawott line) for my birthday, and I absolutely love them! Do you collect any? Also, how do they make toys of rare ‘Mons so accurately? Like, my friend has a Zekrom (He spent so long trying to get one, its crazy) and it looks just like the ‘Dex says the real Zekrom would. It has Teravolt and Dragonbreath, too! Isn’t that awesome?

I have indeed heard of those! My partner and editor collects them, actually.

[[HEY, BILL. WHY DON’T WE TALK ABOUT YOUR EXTENSIVE COMIC BOOK COLLECTION IN PUBLIC? —LH

Oh, could we? I never get a chance to do that! —Bill]]

Strangely, although one would think I’d be enthusiastic about collecting pokémon merchandise, I … actually don’t. I only really buy or otherwise acquire them if I think one of my friends who are avid collectors would like them.

From what I understand, though, the company that makes them, Wonderko, prides itself in creating extremely realistic depictions of pokémon with built-in mechanisms designed to create a limited number of scaled-down replica moves. For example, the Zekrom toy is programmed to use “Teravolt,” which is really just an electric shock delivered by a tiny battery and channeled through its surface.

If anyone’s wondering why a toy would be capable of this, the power of each of these “moves” is scaled down enough to be relatively harmless to humans, but really, the toys are simply inactive figurines without the accompanying Wonder Key. Most parents know better than to give their children said key, but on the off-chance that they do, collectors of these toys argue that the resulting shock (or what-have-you) would be an educational experience for a child who might wish to handle real pokémon in their future.

In my personal opinion, that sounds like a lie, but seeing as I know nothing about raising human children, I can’t really dispute it.

Hi Bill! Hows it going? I had a question beside the one I asked already, which is: Can you split the badges you get in both Johto and Kanto as in get badges any combination (1 and 7, 2, and 6, 3, and 5, 4 and 4) from either region and still participate in the league since the two regions are connected, or do you have to get strictly 8 badges from either region?

Unfortunately … no. Although Kanto and Johto share an Elite Four and champion (but not conference), they’re considered entirely separate leagues (…partly because of the conference). As such, you must earn a minimum number of badges from the gyms sanctioned for the league you want to challenge.

Of course, you can earn badges within a league in any order you’d like, so if you’d like to earn the traditionally first badge, followed by the seventh, second, sixth, and so forth, you’re absolutely free. It’s just that some gyms are easier to access in a certain order than others.

Hey bill, were you ever a Pokémon trainer? If so, what was your starter?

I was indeed! For about a year, anyway. I thought it would be a great way to get out of going to school at the time, but the longer I’d spent on that journey, the closer I grew to my pokémon until I realized they could be much more than just pets or things you caught for the sake of battling. In fact, when my ivysaur evolved into venusaur, it opened my eyes to the idea that pokémon are beautiful, mysterious creatures, and that is what inspired me to become a researcher. I don’t think I would have ended up where I am now had I not decided to try my hand at being a trainer (even if I was absolutely terrible at it).

As for my starter, it was that very same bulbasaur that eventually inspired me to become a researcher instead. You may be wondering how I’d managed to get a hold of a bulbasaur in the middle of the largest city in Johto, of all places, but that’s a very long and complicated story.

You took him from a street vendor. It’s not that complicated. —LH

I rescued him from a neglectful and highly unethical pokémon seller. Besides, is it really pokémon theft if the pokémon goes with you perfectly willingly? —Bill

Right, so, remember, readers: don’t be like Bill. He started off with playing hooky and “rescuing” pokémon, and now he completely ignores lab and field research safety protocols. Following either example will end with you either dead or arrested; how my partner has managed to evade both of these fates is a cosmic mystery. —LH

….

—Bill

Hey bill. My folks decided i needed to learn responsibility while living on my own, and got me an Absol cub from a Breeder. What can you tell me about absol care in general and if there’re any Shows i can enter her in in the American regions? are there any pokemon i should Avoid letting my absol interact with for her own safety?

Allow me to start with the easiest question here: There are quite a few that you could try, including ones for canine pokémon (which absol is considered to be), for dark-types, for pokémon in general … you would really have to be more specific about where in the United States you’d like to go and what sorts of shows you’re considering.

If you mean shows as in contests (that is, you’re considering becoming a coordinator), each region actually has its own circuit, but many of these are much smaller than the ones you would find here in Japan. The two biggest circuits, that of Unova in the northeast corner of the United States and Cielo in the southwest, tend to be difficult to get into and maintain a place in for three reasons. First, it’s extremely competitive, as Americans tend to be rather vicious when placed in competition with each other. Second, there is a preliminary audition for both regions before you enter the circuit proper. This is because of the third reason: contests in the United States are filmed and treated much like any other sort of reality television. For this reason, American organizers tend to be particular about who gets to be on stage in the first place.

Of the two, though, the Unovan contest circuit tends to be easier to get into because there’s a little less competition. While the Cielo contests have no real rivals (aside from the film industry itself), the Unova contests are often overshadowed by pokémon musicals.

On that note, the second easiest question to answer: your absol will likely get along with practically any pokémon. When putting together a team, it’s more important to pay attention to the pokémon as an individual, rather than its species. Occasionally, you may have to handle a pokémon with type biases or known rivalries (obviously, never stick a zangoose with a seviper or a red basculin with a blue), but these are rare occasions. Otherwise, you’d be surprised what can get along with what.

Finally, the third easiest: care.

To start things off, it’s a myth that all dark-types are nocturnal. Absol especially are active in the day or whenever their trainer is. This is because their danger sense compels them to be awake and alert whenever their “charges” are. (Sometimes, that charge is an entire village. Other times, it’s just their trainer.) With that in mind, absol can sleep pretty much anywhere, and they often prefer a hard floor to a bed. You’re welcome to provide one, as well as anything to make your absol more comfortable, but all it will really need is a safe place to sleep indoors.

Grooming is likely the most challenging aspect of owning an absol (other than, obviously, dealing with its precognitive abilities), as it not only has thick fur but also a horn that needs to be well-maintained. Brush your absol daily, and be sure to wash it at least once a month with shampoo designed for dog-like pokémon. (It’s okay to wash your absol between your regular session if it gets into something particularly unpleasant.) Be sure to dry your absol off thoroughly, especially around its mane; it can grow mold if you’re not careful. 

When it comes to horn care, your absol will often prefer to maintain its sharpness by grinding it on a rock, so be sure to provide one outside. Brick or a scratching post (normally designed for cat-like pokémon) work just as well. You may also wish to polish your absol’s horn if you’re considering entering it into shows, but be warned that not all absol will allow you to do this. If yours does, use horn polish (generic works just as well) and a soft cloth. Use firm but gentle movements. Don’t pull too roughly, or your absol will protest by bashing you with its horn.

Finally in terms of grooming, be sure to file your absol’s claws every couple of weeks, and clean its teeth daily. This will not only maintain its physical health but also its mental health. Also, some shows may judge your absol based on these traits especially, as claws and fangs are hallmarks of the dark type.

As for extremely basic care, absol are largely carnivorous, just like most canine pokémon. If you aren’t feeding yours specially designed kibble or wet food for its species, make sure that at least half of its diet consists of meat—the leaner, the better. Poultry is ideal, particularly dark meat if you can find enough of it, and eggs are great as your absol grows older. The rest of its diet can consist of a mixture of berries and starchy or colorful vegetables. Avoid fats and fatty foods whenever possible, as well as foods that are typically poisonous to dog-like pokémon (including chocolate, grapes, and so forth). Grains should also be avoided, less because it would kill your absol and more because not a lot of absol can tolerate grains.

In terms of enrichment, an absol doesn’t require much beyond attention, but many enjoy the same types of toys any other dog-like pokémon loves, including balls, ropes, and chew toys. Absol are especially fond of squeak toys, although researchers have yet to figure out why.

As for exercise, all absol should be let out at least once a day (because, well, many are house-trained, so this is how they’ll relieve themselves), so plan for a walk at the minimum. They should also be trained for at least an hour a day, as per usual for any pokémon. Targets are especially valuable when training your absol, as many of its abilities involve its horn, which is, strangely enough, not a thing most absol innately know how to aim with. On that note, always stand upwind from your absol when training it.

Speaking of abilities, the donphan in the room: its “disaster sense.” For the most part, if you treat your absol well, you won’t have to worry about its precognitive ability. Most trainers live their entire lives without their absol’s danger sense triggering because, well, most of us raise our pokémon in fairly safe environments. That said, this is an ability that absol innately know how to use, so very little training is required from it. However, if your absol stops in its tracks for several moments and then bursts into an unusual amount of activity and agitation for seemingly no reason, drop what you’re doing and follow it. That is what its disaster sense looks like, which means that whatever it foresaw, you very likely do not want to be in the vicinity any time thereafter.

It may be worth it to note that if you did want to train your absol to control these visions or to increase its reach into the future, you could pair it with a psychic (either of the human or pokémon variety) for further teaching. Oftentimes, though, it isn’t worth it unless you work with disasters (say, as an EMT, a firefighter, or an insurance salesman).

Best of luck, anonymous!

I have a weezing that i have taught Explosion but a friend of mine thinks that its cruel and wants me to teach him something else but it doesnt appear to bother him too much. he never shows any distress after using it or looks afraid when I command him to use it. what is your opinion on pokemon moves that damages/knocks out the user?

Actually, in cases such as the voltorb and koffing lines, it would be abuse not to let them use these kinds of moves once in a while. I know that seems quite odd, but in both cases, the unfortunate truth is that Selfdestruct and Explosion are their only ways of expelling excess energy. Unless you’re having them battle or otherwise discharge constantly, electricity (for the voltorb line) and noxious gases (for the koffing line) build up in their bodies, which means that unless they let off steam via these extreme moves, they could be heading towards a natural, unpreventable explosion that could actually injure them. This isn’t to say that they’ll simply explode willingly either way; it’s that they become less and less stable over time, which means that any disturbance could trigger them. Or, well, their droppings become increasingly toxic, in weezing’s case. But you likely might have noticed that.

In other words, by all means, if you can safely use Explosion, it’s perfectly fine to let your weezing use it. You may even find that it’ll become easier and easier to clean up after your weezing the more you use it.

As for other pokémon, such as members of the geodude line, Explosion and Selfdestruct aren’t necessary, but they aren’t putting a pokémon’s life at risk (unless you use it recklessly, in a situation where using a move that powerful would be dangerous because of the surrounding circumstances). I can certainly understand why one would be uncomfortable with the idea of using such moves (I myself would avoid doing it if given the opportunity, but then again, I tend to avoid battling in general), but the truth is it’s no more dangerous than using a Hyper Beam on an opponent.

Okay so long story short, my talonflame just had a clutch of eggs and sadly, one of the chicks did not make it long after hatching. I have had to research how to look after the babies myself because (due to grief, I think) she will not take care of the rest. I’ve had no problems caring for them, but this isn’t the ideal situation. Is there anything I can do to help her deal with her loss and have her caring for her young again?

First and foremost, I’m sorry for your loss, anonymous.

This can be a difficult time for you and your talonflame, but there may be a few things you can do. First, ensure that her nest is in a place free from stressors. Keep her space clean and quiet, and always stock it with plenty of food and water, as well as access to fresh air. The more comfortable she is, the easier it will be to keep her calm.

Next, tend to her needs personally. The calmer she is, the easier it will be to go through the rest of the reintroduction process. Feed her treats, give her wing massages, and reassure her that you care deeply for her until she seems completely at ease.

Then, reintroduce her chicks to her nest. Depending on how violently she rejects them, it may be best to do this step slowly, with one chick at a time. Place the chick in the nest and watch for her reaction. If she doesn’t toss it out (and I mean that literally, so be prepared to catch fletchling here or there), add the next one in until the clutch is in her care.

You’ll need to follow this up with a combination of regular check-ups to the pokémon center (which may also offer help for her mental health and assistance with the grief process) and active training, the latter of which should be focused on maternal tasks. That is to say, you may need to teach her how to be a mother again.

Above everything else, though, remember that this may take time. Losing a child is almost always heartbreaking for a mother, even one that isn’t human, and it may be difficult for her to heal. Be patient as you help her, and eventually, she may come to love her surviving fletchling.

If all else fails, though, be ready with a foster parent, or another pokémon who’s willing to act as their mother. As sad as it is to say this, sometimes, a mother who rejects her clutch never reaccepts it.

Best of luck, anonymous!