I HAVE, AND THEY ARE DELIGHTFUL.
(WHY ARE WE YELLING?)
I HAVE, AND THEY ARE DELIGHTFUL.
(WHY ARE WE YELLING?)
You’re very welcome, anonymous! It’s good to hear that your vulpix is doing so well!
Give her more belly rubs.
Before my editor comes in to correct me, allow me to offer a slightly more serious answer:
This is quite honestly a matter of training your primarina to follow good behavior and avoid bad behavior. Whenever she seems like she’s begging for your attention, give her a firm (but not angry) “no” or ignore her completely until she stops. If she refuses to let you go, gently (but firmly) pull away while giving her a “no.”
On the other hand, if she lets you go after you try to pull away, give her a treat. This will help her understand what you want her to do, and she will come to associate knowing when to let go with being rewarded. Likewise, if she stops begging after you tell her “no,” offer her a treat or affection at a later time.
In other words, always reinforce good behavior (in this case, letting you go when you give her a physical cue) with treats and positive reinforcement and discourage bad behavior (refusing to let you go, forcing you to pet her) with a firm but gentle form of discipline. It will take time to train her, of course, so have patience and try not to be afraid of her in the meantime, but with plenty of hard work, you’ll be able to, well, get your hands back, for lack of a better way of phrasing that.
Best of luck, anonymous!
First and foremost, ensure you have plenty of space, preferably outdoors. Alolan Marowak pride themselves on their dancing, and dancing is, on top of everything else, both a form of communication and self-expression for them. Unfortunately, the fire that lights up the bone clubs integral to such dances is very, very real, and as such, keeping an Alolan marowak can be a bit tricky … or, more to the point, costly for your insurance company.
That said, a sheltered place outside (such as a yard with a canopy over part of it) will be sufficient enough. Your marowak doesn’t need to stay out there, of course, and it would be best to ensure it has a bed inside to keep it out of the rain, but at the very least, it should be able to use this space for practice and enrichment. You can also kill two pidgey with one stone (as it were) by also constructing a place where it can train in this same area: simply clear a spot, line it with dirt, and add targets or practice dummies (a large stone or a log will be sufficient) to allow it to practice both its physical fire moves and its long-distance club-throwing moves.
Beyond training, it should be noted that although Alolan marowak are ghost-types, they are not nocturnal. On the contrary, they very much enjoy sunlight, and they’re happiest when sunbathing. You may wish to set up a heat lamp by its bed in order to give it a place to rest. They are also primarily carnivorous in nature, and besides the usual berries most pokémon will eat, they should be fed a diet of live insects, poultry (including eggs), or fish. Alternatively, kibble will do just as well. (Note: Standard marowak kibble is just as suitable for Alolan marowak as specialty/“Alolan blend” kibble, contrary to what kibble companies may have you believe.) Finally when it comes to the basics, be sure to give your Alolan marowak a dish of clean water; it’s a grave misconception that marowak in general don’t need a lot of water due to their typing, which is why many people believe marowak’s expected lifespan is far shorter than it actually is.
One last note: Alolan marowak are far more loyal than standard variations, as the rugged landscape of their native habitats have forced the entire Alolan cubone line to form strong friendships very early. Keep an eye out for any possessive or “clingy” marowak and be sure to train them firmly but gently to avoid separation anxiety or violence towards ex-significant others. Most Alolan marowak will get along just fine with their own teammates and trainers, but they won’t take kindly to anything that harms the people or pokémon they care about.
It may be important, in this case, to retrain your primarina on two levels.
First, you’ll need to remind your primarina that she is only one half of a team and that she needs to work with your dewgong in order to succeed. You may wish to engage in team building exercises (practice outside of anything directly related to your water show, for example—or in other words, have the two work together around your home or on other projects) in order to strengthen their bond. Likewise, teach your primarina effective ways to offer constructive criticism. Whenever she speaks to her teammate(s) harshly, tell her firmly that this isn’t acceptable behavior. However, if she speaks to her teammates gently and offers advice on how to improve (demonstrations, for example, or communication that seems to please your dewgong), give her a reward of some sort and thank her for her contribution. Eventually, you should be able to correct that behavior and encourage her to support her teammates in more constructive ways.
Second, of course, you’ll also want to remind your primarina that you’re both her trainer and dewgong’s. Tell her that the routine she’s going through is essentially one you’ve created for her and that you accept that it could be weak at points. Work with your primarina and your dewgong to hear their concerns and try to find a compromise that will work for the both of them. You are, after all, their team leader, and a team works together most effectively when it has a strong leader to guide it.
Best of luck, anonymous!
Well, anonymous, it’s worth noting that in the wild, toucannon’s main sources of food (ripe fruit, berries, small lizards, insects, and so forth) are located on the ground, rather than in the air. (The food sources of its previous two forms are located much higher up in the trees, closer to its birth nest.) As such, once a member of the pikipek line evolves into toucannon, it naturally feels more comfortable hunting and fighting on the ground, even if it’s still capable of aerial battling. This is also why a toucannon’s main attacks are more physical in nature, rather than reliant on control of the wind or fast-paced, precision strikes.
In short, actually, your toucannon is very likely exhibiting normal behavior. You should only be worried if her wings hurt her or if she’s completely unable to fly.
Anonymous, your salandit may be viewing you as a rather large and odd-looking salazzle. On the positive side, it’s unlikely he’ll engage in aggressive behaviors, and quite honestly, the behavior you’re mentioning now is perfectly harmless unless he does get aggressive. On the negative side, he thinks you’re an odd-looking salazzle, so … make of that what you will. (You may wish to consider training Ridley to recognize you’re not an odd-looking salazzle, but that’s a bit of a sisyphean task, I’m afraid.)
Excellent to hear! I’m glad Glacier is connecting with you more, anonymous.
That having been said, usually, pokémon from a ninetales’ (or, well, vulpix’s) natural habitat would be the best partners for them. This goes especially for Alolan ninetales, as they have a tendency to see those not native to their own habitats as intruders and will kindly escort them out.
With that in mind, you may find that Glacier might just get along best with members of the Alolan sandshrew line, as well as other ice-types native to Mount Lanakila, such as snorunt or sneasel. He may also get along with glaceon or crabominable, and if he’s particularly easy-going, you might also have luck with ice-types in general.
If you’d prefer a team with more variation, consider absol or castform (both also native to Mount Lanakila) or canine pokémon (not generally native, but typically appeal to ninetales’ latent but inherent social tendencies).
Of course, it’s also worth keeping in mind that no matter what pokémon you choose, with the right amount of training and the most careful introductions possible, any partner might potentially be a good one for your ninetales. It’s all about patience and understanding the way Glacier interacts with others.
Best of luck!
These tip should be effective at resolving your, ah, issue, anonymous: http://bills-pokedex.tumblr.com/search/separation
Of course, it’s important to be patient while training your bulbasaur (according to the tips above). He is still a child, but with enough patience and care, you should be able to make the experience of being weaned off your constant presence a little less traumatic.
Best of luck!
That depends on what you need and what your region is like, anonymous. Different terrain and different forms of transportation call for entirely different pokémon. For example, for an island region, it may be more important for you to have a pokémon that can Surf or Fly, at which point many of the ones that can learn either move are suitable, even if they may seem small. (You’ll be surprised at how much a farfetch’d can carry … or how it does so, for that matter … or how quickly.) By contrast, a mountainous region may require a pokémon well-suited for navigating rocky terrain (such as rhyhorn), one with high endurance (mamoswine), or one adept at climbing (machamp)—or alternatively, one that can fly at high altitudes (dragonite). For long distances across even, dirt fields, you may find it suitable enough to use any number of traditional riding pokémon, such as tauros, rapidash, mudsdale, arcanine, or dodrio, but if you were planning on getting through long distances over water, you may wish to have high-powered water-types, such as lapras or gyarados.
In short, it entirely depends on your needs, anonymous, but you can generally figure out what would be best by looking at a pokémon’s physical capabilities. If a pokémon is known for being able to endure certain types of terrain or if they’re known for certain types of qualities (such as speed or even their docile natures), chances are they’ll make excellent riding pokémon.