What happens to evolution stones after they’re used? Can they be reused? Do they break? Do they morph into the pokemon somehow?

To understand what happens with an evolution stone after it’s used, it might be worth it to start with how they’re used in the first place. You see, evolution stones are actually charged with elemental energies, much in the same way pokémon themselves are. These energies are actually present within our planet and are often thought to be either byproducts, strains, or close cousins to aura, or the basic essence of every living being, depending on whom you ask.

When an evolution stone is used on a compatible pokémon, the pokémon draws that energy within themselves to unlock the part of its genetic code that enables evolution (in much the same way other pokémon might do it when they gain enough battle experience, when they’re happy enough, and so on and so forth). Thus, when a stone is used, it enters an inert state and must be reintroduced to a known spring of compatible energy (that is, veins of its same type of evolution stone) in order to recharge. Of course, recharging is a very long process; if done naturally, it could take thousands of years for a single stone to regain enough energy to be usable again.

For this reason, stones are normally thought to be, well … less impressive or valuable upon use. Most trainers will simply throw them away (or toss them into the wild), but some stone collectors will keep used specimens. Additionally, some people fashion them into jewelry, as they’re essentially safe to have around like pokémon (meaning, pokémon won’t attempt to use them as evolution stones) at that point, and they’re not often seen as a valuable enough stone to steal. However, it’s worth it to note that used evolution stones are duller than their charged counterpart, so their value compared to charged stones is a matter of hot debate among jewelers and jewelry collectors.

In short, they don’t break. They just become inert, and what one does with them afterwards is really a matter of personal taste.

Hey, I saw posts on Pinterest of trainers planting flowers and succulents on the rocks of their Dwebble and Crustle, after seeing it I really wanted to try it on my own darling Crustle but I was wondering if their are any health risks or dangers with doing so.

From what I understand, if it’s on Pinterest and involves pokémon, there is a very good chance that it’s actually not a good idea. (The same can be said for Instagram, particularly those involving pokémon diets. I’m just saying, readers.)

On a serious note, while it’s okay to decorate your dwebble or crustle with air plants (so long as you remember not to mist them directly on your pokémon), it’s not okay to place any plant that actually requires planting. Strangely, it’s not because you would need to water them. (Actually, dwebble and crustle can tolerate mild amounts of water themselves, and this is often recommended to help keep their shells clean.) It’s actually because in order to convert them into adequate planters, you’ll need to dig holes into their shells, which is something you often don’t see on Pinterest. Not only is this extremely difficult, but it’s also often distressing for the dwebble or crustle.

This is especially true for dwebble, which are often very particular about the shells they choose and carve, and they’re often too docile to voice their distress to their trainers. Unfortunately, because they often don’t vocalize that this is a problem, dwebble basically lead a constantly stressed existence, which greatly reduces their lifespans. Dwebble that have had this treatment done to them don’t often live past a few months if they don’t have access to more rocks, and if they do, because their trainers don’t understand that this is a problem, they’ll often live for only a year or two after that (as changing rocks may relieve stress temporarily but will only slightly delay the inevitable if they have to do so constantly).

Crustle are a bit more tolerant, however, but this still doesn’t mean you should drill into their shells to make a planter, as the added pressure of you doing so may inadvertently crush your pokémon. It’s possible to lay a thin layer of dirt on top, however, but keep in mind that this may only hold a few small plants—and that this layer should be thin. Additional weight may also be a constant source of stress for a crustle.

In short, it’s not really a good idea, I’m afraid. There are ways to do it with a crustle if you’re very careful (and plant something lightweight, that doesn’t require water), but even then, the risks involved with setting such a thing up are honestly not that worth it. Also, never do this with a dwebble.

On the positive side, air plants are very easy to care for, and many dwebble and crustle adore them, not only because they make very smart decorations but also because they’re a convenient snack. (You may wish to have a handy supply of them or to train your dwebble or crustle to not eat them whenever your back is turned, on that note.)

Hi! I have a Solosis who keeps disappearing at night. Is it because it travels to other dimensions or is their a secret Solosis society that I don’t know about? I get worried because when it comes back in the morning, it’s really tired and falls asleep. I don’t usually get to train it or spend time with it.

It’s difficult to say what your solosis may be doing, anonymous. I can assure you that there isn’t a general secret solosis society, but it’s entirely possible that one has formed in your community anyway, especially given how social solosis are. Alternatively, it’s also possible that your solosis is simply training itself at night or playing. It might even be a nutritional deficiency or an overly worn bed, if your solosis is trying to sleep at night. Ultimately, the only way to know for certain what it’s doing is by keeping an eye on it. Solosis can’t teleport, so following it should be rather simple.

Once you figure out what it’s doing, then you can take steps to correct this behavior or help solosis so it doesn’t end up exhausted every morning. But you can’t really act until you know for certain what the core issue actually is.

Best of luck!

My recently evolved Espeon has taken to using Telekinesis on herself to “float” around, so to speak — she’s been adamant on doing so since she was an Eevee and had a friend’s pokemon use the same move on her as a shared game of sorts. Recently I noticed that whenever she goes airborne, there isn’t the tell-tale glow of her psychic power activating? It’s really weird! She spends most of her time floating by my side nowadays, and doesn’t show much exhaustion while doing so. Should I be worried?

This is actually perfectly normal, anonymous. You see, the “glow” you observe whenever a psychic-type uses its abilities is actually psychic “run-off,” so to speak; it’s just their aura flaring up after being charged with psychic energy from the exertion of using their own powers. This is also why the more powerful the move, the brighter and more massive the psychic aura.

However, if a psychic-type exercises their abilities regularly, they can actually diminish their auras until they’re barely noticeable. It’s very much like getting used to a certain level of activity as you physically get into shape. In fact, many psychic trainers aim for this phenomenon precisely because it not only means their pokémon have mastered their abilities but also allows them to become far stealthier on the battlefield.

In your espeon’s case, though, it sounds like she’s exercised her levitation abilities so much that it’s practically second nature to her, and thus, her psychic energies are far more focused on the task, leaving very little stray energy to charge her aura. You may notice her aura returning for other moves, but if it doesn’t, you shouldn’t worry, either. Considering the fact that levitation isn’t a natural ability for espeon, it’s likely yours has mastered the abilities that are.

Still, keep an eye out for any sign of psychic overexertion, including bloodshot eyes, a bloody nose, lethargy, a lack of appetite, or a sudden, explosive reappearance of her aura. If she’s constantly exercising her ability, this may be a possibility (as rare as it can be), and if any of this occurs, you’ll need to get her to a pokémon center as soon as possible.

Are Yamask actually the souls of dead humans, as the Pokédex states? I feel a bit odd about catching and training Yamask because of it. Sure, it’s not the worst afterlife fate I could imagine, but it still weirds me out.

Luckily, no. Just like phantump, this is only Unovan folklore, albeit a popular story. It stems from the fact that people have a tendency to look for something familiar in the unfamiliar, especially when it comes to things that might vaguely resemble faces. So while yamask’s mask is generically humanlike, it’s only a generic humanlike mask, created to help yamask harvest negative emotion for its meals. If you stare at it long enough, you may begin to make out the face of someone you know who has died, but this is just your mind using your memory of them to play tricks on you.

In truth, yamask are just like any other pokémon: they hatch from eggs, no death necessary.

My walrein loves to play with beach balls, but he always ends up popping them with his tusks. He does have other toys he likes to play with, but beach balls are his favourite and he gets upset. I’ve heard someone suggest filing down his teeth, but is this safe? Do you have any other suggestions

Ah, no, it’s not a good idea to file down a walrein’s tusks, I’m afraid. This could damage them and lead to long-term pain for your partner. Instead, you should always let your walrein maintain the length of his tusks on his own by supplying him with sturdy tree trunks, bones, or specially made posts for pokémon with continually growing teeth. The only time you should touch a walrein’s tusks is to brush them or to examine them for any signs of disease, particularly around the gum area.

When it comes to balls, though, you might want to consider a sturdier ball. While it’s true that volleyballs are no replacement, they are designed to take more hits than a beach ball and can be painted to resemble one using nontoxic paint. If your walrein can tell the difference, though, the alternative is to make or buy tusk caps made of food grade/nontoxic plastic to temporarily “dull” the sharpness of his tusks. If you go with this route, don’t forget to remove these caps when he’s done playing with his beach balls or at least when it’s time to eat and train.

Best of luck!

Any tips for raising pokemon that have lost an eye? I recently caught a croagunk that’s missing an eye and need some tips.

First off, is it safe to assume that the croagunk is already used to living without one of its eyes? If no, I’ll cover that in a moment, but first, allow me to answer this as if your croagunk is already adjusted.

The biggest thing you need to know when dealing with a pokémon that’s disabled in some way is understanding what that disability actually means. In this example, you’ll need to know how the eyes work together in order to understand how best to work with your croagunk.

You see, when you lose an eye, the biggest thing is that your depth perception is affected. This in turn means your ability to judge distances will be affected, which, for a frog-like fighting-type pokémon, is a pretty big deal. While your croagunk may have had time to learn how to work around this and adjust accordingly, it’s a good idea to keep this in mind when giving orders. Get to know your croagunk’s battle style. Observe the exact things it does to prepare for a strike, and incorporate your observations into the orders you give it, even in the heat of the moment.

Then, of course, there’s also the fairly obvious point that your croagunk will have a blind spot. Again, this may be something it’s figured out how to compensate for, but be prepared to warn your croagunk if an opponent or other obstacle comes in from its blind side. Be particularly alert and train yourself to give orders quickly—perhaps even instinctually.

If, however, your croagunk has only recently lost its eye, you’ll first want to take it to a Nurse Joy to have it examined. Of course, you’ll want to do this either way, but a recent loss may need to be checked and monitored for potential infection.

After that, you’ll need to begin training. It may be slow going, especially given that your croagunk isn’t used to you, but have patience and be gentle. If you live in a town or city, you may also have access to therapists at your local pokémon center who may be able to work with you and croagunk. It certainly doesn’t hurt to ask. If not, consider asking Nurse Joy herself if she can offer therapy.

Outside of the pokémon center, don’t be overbearing when helping your croagunk. The last thing you want to do is rob it of its independence. Instead, teach it (how to punch, grasp, or leap) only until it starts to get the idea, then let it do it on its own. Be there, of course, if your croagunk is really struggling to adjust its movements to its eyesight, but wait until it signals for you to help. This can take different forms, depending on your croagunk’s disposition. If it looks like it’s getting angry, reassure it first that it’s doing the best that it can, then nudge its target a little closer to it until it can reach for it itself.

This, of course, isn’t the only possible signal. It might also grasp at the target, then look at you. If it does this, guide its hand to the target and then encourage it to follow through itself. Reward it every time it successfully reaches for its target on its own so it begins to learn how to calibrate itself in space without your cues, so to speak.

Also, concerning the blind spot, avoid approaching your croagunk from the side where it’s lost its eye. This is true even if it’s used to seeing with only one eye, but if it’s new to partial blindness, you don’t want to startle it. If you must, verbally let your croagunk know that you’re approaching so it can turn if it needs to. If it seems upset that it can’t see out of one eye, I would recommend a training session tailored towards helping it develop its spacial perception, as noted above, in a battle scenario. Don’t have it spar, of course, but rather have it train against stationary objects. The battling will hopefully boost its confidence enough that it will regrow its sense of self and inner strength. Alternatively, you can achieve the same effect with basic training exercises for day-to-day life or even for whatever its interests are. For example, if it’s not much of a battler and more of an artistic croagunk, consider setting up an art station in your home and having it create its own art. Any activity that relies on visual skills can be used for retraining, so pay attention to what catches your croagunk’s attention.

Best of luck!

I’m pretty sure my Serperior is using my computer when I’m away or asleep, or he’s at least trying to. I never find anything in browser history, but his vines tapping on the keys when he thinks I’m asleep in the next room are far too rhythmic for just play. How should I handle this? I doubt he’ll admit to it, seeing as he covers his tracks, but I’m worried he might get one or both of us into trouble, whatever he’s doing.

Have you tried enabling parental controls on your computer? Even if your serperior has learned how to use a computer, that should keep him out of trouble. If he hasn’t and is just tapping on the keyboard to mimic you (which is likely, as many pokémon like mirroring their trainers to be closer to them), it will still protect him from accidentally going anywhere he shouldn’t. On that note, if he is mirroring you, this isn’t a cause of concern at all, but you may wish to consider getting him a dummy keyboard (that is, one that isn’t connected to anything) and setting up a “computer” (which can be as simple as a cardboard box with a printed-out copy of your desktop pasted to it) to keep him entertained.

And if he isn’t mirroring you and manages to bypass parental controls and navigate his way to the worst parts of the internet … honestly, by that point, he merry well deserves to be there, considering how savvy he clearly is. Still, you may wish to teach him about Tor and get a VPN. Just in case.

Hey Bill, do Magikarp have any Natural Predators in the Wild? I ask because I recently saw a Dragonair eating what i think were Smallmouth Bass and began wondering about Predator-Prey Relations in the pokemon world.

Magikarp’s natural predator is everything. Or nearly everything. Humans don’t eat it because there’s not much meat to it, and it takes a particularly strong set of claws, teeth, or attacks (or a particularly hard rock) to get past magikarp’s scales. But it can be done, and practically everything that considers itself a predator might eat magikarp if they’re looking for an easy meal.

It’s actually one of the reasons why gyarados are so notoriously angry and vicious when they evolve.

Why can some pokemon let themselves out of thier pokeballs? Or is it that they all can but choose not to?

The latter, surprisingly enough. While poké balls are indeed capture devices (meaning there is a baseline capture rate for all of them), whether or not they can contain their captured pokémon until a trainer releases them depends entirely on the willpower of the pokémon in question. You see, inside every poké ball is a capture grid that works like an electrical net. So long as the pokémon’s will is neutral, it won’t disrupt the grid, and the ball will remain closed. If, however, the pokémon passionately wants to get out, there’s a chance they’ll disrupt the grid, which causes the poké ball to think a trainer has opened it, thus leading the ball to eject its contained pokémon. For some reason, smaller or basic-level pokémon seem to be more adept at disrupting the grid than larger, more evolved ones, which is why you might see pikachu break out of their balls more often than charizard, even if they’re both equally bonded to their trainers. Some smaller pokémon will even disrupt the capture grid every time, which means their poké balls are really only effective for the initial capture. (This occurs especially with pikachu.)

You may think this is a design flaw, but actually, it’s perfectly intentional. While, yes, a poké ball’s main points are to ensure a pokémon can be withdrawn from a dangerous situation or to prevent rampages, the poké ball is also designed to allow a pokémon to break free in dire situations, such as those in which its trainer is in danger and unable to summon them. That and it’s just seen as more humane to allow a pokémon to break free if it has the overwhelming need to shower its trainer with affection.