Hey Bill, what advice do you have for if your pokemon don’t like fireworks? Is there a way to help them understand that the sound from them isn’t going to cause them or me any harm. I tried putting my Houndoom into her pokeball last year but she broke out since she was concerned about me being harmed by them. I was perfectly safe in my house. Any advise would be nice.

That depends on how far you’d like to go to avoid them. If you’d prefer to stay at home tonight, then find an isolated room deep in the house. A basement would work best, but in a pinch, try to put her into the furthest bedroom from the fireworks. If you have a fan or white noise machine, place them in the room and turn them on to help dampen the sound. A TV tuned to static will also do. Give her plenty of water and treats, and stay with her for as long as you’re willing. Only sedate her if this doesn’t work.

If, however, you’re able and willing to travel tonight, consider spending the holiday in a remote area or in a town that isn’t hosting fireworks. Sometimes, it’s just as fun to hold a bonfire on a remote beach as it is to be anywhere near a fireworks display.

If all else fails and you have more than one pokémon, you may consider using the PC system as well, but this is (understandably) a last resort.

Heya Bill. Over the past few days, Sorrel, my Houndoom, has been showing all the signs of impending motherhood. Realistically, the only ‘mon that could be the father is Spruce, my Skuntank. I’d just like to know if there might be any complications, because of the different species.

Actually, no. Pokémon of different species mate all the time with no consequence, sometimes even for generations. It’s only if you cross the barriers between egg groups that you start taking risks.

Houndour and Houndoom

bills-pokedex:

Houndour
The Dark Pokémon
Type: Dark/Fire
Official Registration #: 228
Entry: A small, dog-like pokémon native to thick, dark forests. Interestingly, although this pokémon is part of the Johtonian Regional Pokédex, it was first discovered in Kanto and cannot, in truth, be found at all in Johto outside of the Johtonian Safari Zone Nature Preserve. The reason behind this discrepancy is actually quite simple. Houndour hunt in massive packs through the darkness of their native forests, where their pelts can blend in with forest shadows as they corner prey, and Kantonian researchers possess far stronger self-preservation instincts than their Johtonian counterparts.

Houndoom
The Dark Pokémon
Type: Dark/Fire
Official Registration #: 229
Entry: The evolved form of houndour, by battle experience. This dog-like pokémon is capable of exhaling a jet of fire and a spray of incendiary, highly caustic, toxic chemicals at the same time. The effect of these two mechanisms in combination leaves not only second-degree thermal burns (at the minimum) but severe chemical burns as well. According to folklore, anyone unfortunate enough to receive these burns will never fully recover; the burn will essentially be painful forever. However, this is not necessarily true. With proper care, the pain will typically subside within a week, and the resulting scar will fade within a year. On the other hand, not necessarily true isn’t the same thing as entirely false. First, one must remember that centuries ago, back when people first began to think this about houndoom burns, treatments for burns that complex or severe didn’t exist. Second, psychological pain is never a thing that heals easily, and some survivors of houndoom attacks may acquire a fear of houndoom thereafter. Third, either way, being burned by a houndoom feels just about as delightful as being attacked by a swarm of angry magikarp, and based on personal experience alone, the author would not recommend it.

Mega Houndoom
The Dark Pokémon
Type: Dark/Fire
Official Registration #: 229+
Entry: The advanced form of houndoom, via houndoominite. This pokémon is actually a “good fire doggo.” The internet was surprisingly correct about this one, and there’s not much more to say concerning it beyond that.

My Houndoom is having problems with… Well, farts. That’s very problematic since the smog doesn’t only make my house smelling bad, it is toxic! What can I do to avoid this problem?

Switch to a different brand of kibble. Sometimes, kibble brands can be a bit of a lottery with pokémon. Some types of kibble have absolutely no ill effects on the pokémon that eat them; others … result in the exact problem you’re describing. You may wish to offer your houndoom a bit of wet food now and then too.

Bill, Houndoom have no ears. Is there any logical explanation for this?

They have ears. They’re located just under their horns, obscured by their dark fur.

What they don’t have are pinnae—or none that we would recognize, anyway. Their horns essentially function as pinnae for houndoom, and, in fact, the going theory is that these were actually evolved from houndoom’s pinnae millions of years ago, likely as an adaptation in response to their pack structure. Oftentimes, houndoom determine pack leaders (as well as hunting parties) by engaging in battles with one another. The strongest houndoom—that is, the ones who are victorious in these battles—are the ones who hunt for food and lead packs to new breeding grounds. Thus, it’s likely ancient houndoom developed their horns, as those with horns have an easier time defending their positions within houndoom packs than those without.

Um, hi, yes, my Houndoom Hannah has recently begun expecting a litter of puppies. Any good advice?

Invest in a lot of aloe.

On a serious note, for the most part, a lot of the care will be handled by the mother for the first few months. Simply give her enough space, be sure she’s comfortable, take her to regular pokémon center appointments, and follow everything your Nurse Joy tells you, and the delivery will be relatively painless. Moreover, once hatching, the pups will likely stick to their mother (and the mother will insist on this if the pups don’t), and of course, the usual feeding, grooming, and so forth will be done by Hannah.

Once the pups grow and become more independent, assuming you keep all of them, care of them will follow the same basic outline as the care you’ve given Hannah. I would simply recommend that you fireproof as much of your home as possible and keep an eye on them, as houndour pups are naturally curious, mischievous, and social—and the latter is relevant because one possible way of communicating for houndour is through their use of fire. Something will be set on fire in your home, in other words, and this will simply be a part of your life until you teach Hannah’s puppies otherwise.

If, however, you choose to give away the puppies, be sure to find a reputable shelter or breeder, or simply leave them with the pokémon center. There are quite a few shelters out there that may be either high-kill or less-than-reputable (that is, fronts for illegal pokémon fighting rings), so it’s worth it to do your research beforehand.

Best of luck and congratulations!

I recently got a baby togepi and people keep getting very concerned because if rides on the back of my houndoom. Now my houndoom is nothing but loving and nurturing, having had a litter of her own and adopted a shinx and growlithe when they were rejected by their mothers. I’m just really frustrated with all the bias

Unfortunately, anonymous, I’m afraid that there is quite a lot of discrimination against dark-type pokémon and their users. This is largely in part due to long-standing folklore that states dark-types in general are ruthless, bloodthirsty, or dangerous tricksters. Houndoom in particular are victims of this, as their alarming appearances, pack habits, and notorious bites made them rather frightening creatures to the humans who lived near their territories. This is all despite the fact that members of the houndour line are among the most loyal and gentle fire-type pokémon (never mind the most loyal dark-types) one can own.

The best you can do is try your best to not let it affect you. If someone attempts to confront you about your houndoom, show them that yours is gentle and do your best to educate them while deescalating the situation. Don’t give in to your frustrations. The important thing is whether or not your houndoom and togepi are safe and happy.

Best of luck, anonymous, and hang in there!

I recently adopted a Very young swablu that was rescued from an awful and abusive owner, and she has awful anxiety. So I had my bulbasaur use his sweet scent and just all around wonderful personality to help her become more used to me and my Pokémon. Well she’s bonded with my bulbasaur, but refuses to leave his side and becomes defensive when my houndoom and togekiss get near them, going as far as to peck them! No accidents involving serious injury yet, but what do I do to help her and my team?

As with all instances in which one pokémon has trouble integrating with their team, it’s important to ensure that you have all the information about what’s going on correct. That is to say, it’s worth observing your team for just a bit longer to see if your swablu’s behavior is definitely because of her anxiety and not due to some other issue that may need to be resolved (such as some level of hostility or disinterest from your togekiss or houndoom).

If this issue is indeed caused by swablu’s nervousness, start slowly. Try to keep your togekiss and houndoom away from your swablu at first. Use their poké balls if you have to, but the important thing is, if at all possible, try to avoid exposing your swablu to the both of them at the same time, especially at times when you can’t keep an eye on them.

Now, for your first step, I would recommend introducing your swablu to togekiss first, as togekiss in general have nurturing dispositions and an innate urge to make others happy. To set up the introduction, have your bulbasaur stand by swablu and use Sweet Scent to keep her calm. Explain to your swablu what’s about to happen and who your togekiss is to both you and your bulbasaur. (That is to say, emphasize that your togekiss is a friend.) Take a few steps back, enough to ensure that there’s plenty of space between you and your pokémon, and release your togekiss next to you, rather than between yourself and your swablu. Do not have your togekiss block your swablu’s view of you.

If your togekiss knows Heal Bell, now would be a good time to use it. I know that sounds odd, but the soothing tones of Heal Bell can possibly calm and entrance your swablu, even if she doesn’t suffer from any specific ailment. If your togekiss doesn’t know Heal Bell, don’t worry. This is just a helpful tip, not something that’s absolutely vital to bridging the gap between your swablu and togekiss.

From there, as with most instances in which one of your team members is terrified of another, begin with short, simple interactions, perhaps led by your bulbasaur. Have your bulbasaur interact with your togekiss first. Let him converse with your togekiss and then draw your swablu into the conversation naturally. Allow your togekiss and swablu to have a short conversation with each other, then end the session by withdrawing your togekiss back into its ball to show your swablu that you have the ability to ensure that none of your pokémon hurt her. If at any point, she attempts to attack your togekiss anyway, have your bulbasaur calm her down with Sweet Scent or by using a gentle Vine Whip to hold her back (by wrapping her, not hitting her).

Once your swablu is able to handle short, friendly conversations with your togekiss on her own, give your togekiss more time to interact with her. Additionally, at the start of each session, work your way closer and closer to your swablu until you’re able to release your togekiss within beak’s reach of her. If she isn’t startled by your togekiss’s presence then, graduate to using the two of them side-by-side in double battles or sparring sessions to reinforce the bond between them.

Due to houndoom’s rougher nature, it’s unwise to introduce it to your swablu until after she’s absolutely comfortable with your togekiss. Once she reaches that point, perform the exact same steps with your houndoom, only have your togekiss be present for the introduction as well. Thus, place your togekiss and bulbasaur next to your swablu, give yourself enough space, release your houndoom next to you, and begin by having either your bulbasaur or your togekiss (or both) interact with your houndoom. There’s a good chance that your swablu, at this point, will recognize this process and understand on some level that you’re attempting to introduce her to a friend, but don’t assume that having her interact with houndoom will be any easier. Take it slow and let your swablu tell you when she’s comfortable enough to proceed to the next step.

In other words, the most important thing here is that your houndoom and your togekiss are parts of her team now, and team dynamics are vital, both on and off the battlefield. They may even be vital to your swablu’s ability to heal from her past. Thus, there is likely no way around introducing her to the rest of her team, but with enough patience and time, you may be able to coax her to connect with your other pokémon.

I have two service animals: an absol and houndoom. While they’re both very gentle and kind, and are very well trained, people always give me dirty looks or tell me that I can’t bring them in stores or restaurants because no one wants a lifelong painful burn from a houndoom or to be cursed by an absol. How can I show people the stigma behind these Pokémon are false and that my Pokémon are just as well suited to service animal life as others are?

I’m afraid that dark-type service pokémon face many of the same challenges pet or battle-ready dark-types face, and there’s not much you can do about that unless you have the energy to educate (which not many people do, I know). There will always be people who are convinced that all dark-types, regardless of training, are uncontrollable beasts who will lash out at a moment’s notice. Sometimes, people can be convinced that your pokémon are harmless if you show them that they’re gentle (perhaps by having a non-dark pet or battle-ready pokémon accompany them), but this could be a distraction for your service pokémon. That and it’s not a guarantee that people will leave you alone, especially if you live in regions that are especially rich with anti-dark-type folklore.

My advice would be to ensure that your service pokémon are wearing their service vests, do your best to keep them professional at all times, and remember that you have an actual human right to bring your service pokémon with you. If a person simply gives you a dirty look, try your best to ignore it and remember that there is nothing wrong with you or your service pokémon. If possible, travel with a friend who’s comfortable with your service pokémon, as having at least one human with you who clearly doesn’t mind your absol or houndoom may be a comfort to others.

If you’re confronted by someone, however, always remain calm. I know, it may seem difficult to stay calm in those situations, especially given how vehemently some people address dark-type handlers, but it’s important to avoid escalating the situation. Therefore, if you’re in an inescapable situation wherein someone questions your service pokémon or tells you that they need to be removed from the premises, calmly tell the other person that you’re disabled, that you need your service pokémon (and, if you wish, for what reason), and that the law of your region (in most cases) allows you to enter a business establishment with pokémon of any type who are trained to assist those with disabilities.

If an employee still has an issue with your service pokémon and they are not a manager, ask to speak with the manager. If it’s a fellow patron who has approached you, find an employee and ask for assistance. And if it’s the manager themselves, remind them that barring you entry is discrimination.

Should this fail to stop the manager or owner from barring you entry or kicking you and your service pokémon out, contact your region’s Division of Human Rights (the actual name also tends to depend on the region—be sure to educate yourself on your local laws and government bodies as well) to file a complaint against the establishment. This, of course, should be your very last option, as filing a complaint means working with the legal system, which itself could be more of a mess than it’s worth, depending on your region. Nonetheless, it’s still a viable option, especially if—blazes forbid—violence was involved.

I know this might not be the answer you’re looking for, anonymous, but I’m afraid the stigma against dark-types is always going to be a problem for us humans. Even if your pokémon are nothing if not professional, there will always be one or two people who will give you strange looks for having dark-type service pokémon. Thus, it’s best to ignore those who don’t engage with you and, whenever possible, to educate those who do. Who knows? Maybe, if your town is small enough or if you frequent an establishment enough, your efforts to educate will evolve into a rapport with the owners and regulars, who can then, in turn, help others to feel comfortable with your pokémon whenever you’re in. Friendship often breeds friendship, which is why it’s very important to stay calm, know your rights, and be prepared to de-escalate and educate, if you can.

Best of luck, anonymous.

Houndour and Houndoom

Houndour
The Dark Pokémon
Type: Dark/Fire
Official Registration #: 228
Entry: A small, dog-like pokémon native to thick, dark forests. Interestingly, although this pokémon is part of the Johtonian Regional Pokédex, it was first discovered in Kanto and cannot, in truth, be found at all in Johto outside of the Johtonian Safari Zone Nature Preserve. The reason behind this discrepancy is actually quite simple. Houndour hunt in massive packs through the darkness of their native forests, where their pelts can blend in with forest shadows as they corner prey, and Kantonian researchers possess far stronger self-preservation instincts than their Johtonian counterparts.

Houndoom
The Dark Pokémon
Type: Dark/Fire
Official Registration #: 229
Entry: The evolved form of houndour, by battle experience. This dog-like pokémon is capable of exhaling a jet of fire and a spray of incendiary, highly caustic, toxic chemicals at the same time. The effect of these two mechanisms in combination leaves not only second-degree thermal burns (at the minimum) but severe chemical burns as well. According to folklore, anyone unfortunate enough to receive these burns will never fully recover; the burn will essentially be painful forever. However, this is not necessarily true. With proper care, the pain will typically subside within a week, and the resulting scar will fade within a year. On the other hand, not necessarily true isn’t the same thing as entirely false. First, one must remember that centuries ago, back when people first began to think this about houndoom burns, treatments for burns that complex or severe didn’t exist. Second, psychological pain is never a thing that heals easily, and some survivors of houndoom attacks may acquire a fear of houndoom thereafter. Third, either way, being burned by a houndoom feels just about as delightful as being attacked by a swarm of angry magikarp, and based on personal experience alone, the author would not recommend it.