At the risk of being somewhat unprofessional (and inciting the ire of my editor), in response to the act of breeding pokémon without knowing much about how to raise them:

I do hope you either intend on raising the other hatchlings or have already rehomed them to a certifiable no-kill pokémon shelter or to respectable homes, reader. If not, sorting that out is your first priority.

That having been said, many of the basics to raising baby pokémon are the same as raising adult pokémon. That is to say, eventually, you’ll need the proper types of food for your igglybuff and togepi, the proper spaces, the proper bedding, and even the proper waste disposal bins.

However, at first, they should be left with their parents for a few weeks. During this time, the parents will be the ones to feed the hatchlings, and many of the basic skills your togepi and igglybuff need to survive will be taught during this period. You’ll know when your togepi and igglybuff are ready for independent care when the parents spend less and less time away from the nests they’ve made for them. Give it another week and then approach the nest (to avoid being attacked by the parents).

As a note, if you’ve received these eggs from a breeder or otherwise do not have the parents on hand, allow one of your other pokémon to care for them. Most pokémon, as noted in an earlier ask, are instinctually equipped to take care of newborns, even if they’re not of the same species.

Once the hatchlings are ready for you, note that baby pokémon also need a lot more affection than their adult forms. Luckily, as igglybuff and togepi tend to be interested in the same things, this may be less of a challenge for you. Get plenty of soft, chewable toys, preferably ones that can hold their attention. Both igglybuff and togepi like dangling toys they can bat at, and igglybuff adores musical toys or toys that make sounds. (Togepi will play with these as well, but it doesn’t get quite as excited over them as igglybuff.) The only real challenge in keeping them engaged will likely be giving them equal amounts of affection. Some togepi can be quite possessive and will cry if not handled enough or if it believes you’re handling another pokémon more than it. The ability to multitask will be essential to you.

As for feeding, as mentioned above, the newborns will be fed by the parents (or caretakers). After that, togepi feed mostly on soft berries and foods at first. As they get older, they can consume things like vegetables, harder fruits, sprouts, beans, and occasionally eggs. (Obviously, do not feed your togepi eggs from its own line. Pidgey eggs, animal eggs, or any other eggs in general are fine.) Igglybuff are strictly herbivorous and should be fed leafy greens when not fed kibble. Contrary to popular belief, root vegetables should be treats, not mainstays, as the high sugar content may be harmful to it. Berries are fine to give on a daily basis, but limit your igglybuff’s intake to only one or two berries a day, also due to the high sugar content.

Regarding wastes, Togepi, which evolve into more bird-like species, will need a litter cage, or a birdcage-like apparatus lined at the bottom with shredded paper. (Always be sure to use uncoated paper. Never use magazine pages or the glossy, color pages of a newspaper. These may contain chemicals that will be harmful to your togepi.) You can save money and effort by buying cages specifically for togekiss. Many of these will also have the perches togetic and togekiss will need pre-installed, although customizable models are available. Change the bedding every day—twice daily for hatchlings who are still getting used to their cages. Finally, yes, you will have to train your togepi to use the cage at first. When you notice your togepi getting quiet and still, fidgeting, or actually in the act, immediately pick it up and place it in the cage. Do not yell at your togepi if it relieves itself on your floor; rather, tell it in a firm voice that this is not acceptable and let it watch you clean up its mess. Also, use positive reinforcement by rewarding it whenever it successfully uses its cage. Eventually, it will begin to figure out what the cage is for on its own.

Igglybuff, meanwhile, are like many fairies in that they use a litter box. Unlike its cousin, clefairy, you should not use cat litter to fill it. Rather, use hay or paper. The igglybuff line tends to inhale deeply shortly before eliminating wastes (as it uses the pressure of the air it traps to help evacuation), and cat litter tends to be easier to inhale. Simply place the litter box in a place your igglybuff can easily see and access, and it will figure out the rest. If you still have its jigglypuff or wigglytuff parents, have them teach it how to use the box. Be sure to change this daily as well.

As for bedding, both species typically enjoy small, soft pokémon beds, but at first, they may insist on sleeping with you. It’s fine to do this at first, but as they get older, you may need to train them to sleep in their own. Allowing them to continue to sleep with you may disrupt their ability to perform on the battlefield, as they will develop the tendency to seek you whenever they perceive that they’re in danger.

Finally, as noted earlier, baby pokémon require a lot more attention than their adult selves. Igglybuff generally engage in vocal exercises to develop their voices, which means they may use Sing at random. They also tend to bounce when bored or excited, and as their bodies are very soft and pliable, they can continue bouncing until they build up enough momentum to do actual property damage. Togepi, meanwhile, are far less likely to injure you, but they are highly curious pokémon that have a tendency to wander off on their own and place themselves in danger. It is of the utmost importance that you keep as much of an eye on both of them until they either evolve or outgrow these tendencies.

But if you can do all of this and survive largely intact, you’ll find that it will be easy to bond with your pokémon and fulfill the requirements they need to evolve.

Good luck!