How is it ethical to battle with Minior?

If you know how to properly administer aftercare for a minior and if the minior itself consents, then it’s perfectly ethical. The key is ensuring proper maintenance of your minior’s shell at all times. If it sheds this shell, recall it to its ball as soon as possible until you’re capable of giving it a dust or sand bath so it can feed and build a new shell. In other words, it’s a challenge and not something I would recommend to just any trainer, but it’s absolutely possible to give a minior a happy, full life and have it battle for you at the same time.

Dear LH, do you know anything about what an Absol is judged on in the Kennel Club shows or if i can even get my Absol into said Show as an Absol Aficionado? Also, I need some pointers on Ponyta/Rapidash Care and Biology to disabuse a niece of mine of her belief of some of the stuff she watches in My Little Ponyta. downside of living with pokemon: Cartoons are harder to prove as impossible.

Oh! Yes! Canine pokémon shows judge absol and all other participants on a list of criteria based on ideals of each species and breed. Generally speaking, that means things like the quality of the pelt, balance, height, weight, teeth and strength of bite, the way the tail arches, etc. Absol are judged on these too, as well as a few extra criteria: the quality/strength/curve of the horn and the thickness and sharpness of the claws. Also, there’s usually a second round where participants are tested for obedience and the strength of basic attacks. In all, canine shows are very much like pokémon contests, but they focus more on the natural qualities and capabilities of each pokémon, rather than advanced style or strength.

Also, for the most part, most shows will consider absol to be canine pokémon as well, but there are a few that think of them as too different to count. It’s worth it to look at the rules for each show you’re interested in, although the largest ones (including the Camphrier Kennel Club, probably the most famous) will accept absol entrants.


Well, the important thing to know about ponyta and rapidash is that they don’t live indoors, contrary to what the cartoon will have you believe. They’re field pokémon, so therefore, a trainer should give them plenty of space to roam and exercise. A field filled with wild grass would work best. Contrary to popular belief, neither ponyta nor rapidash would set a grassy field on fire so long as they’re calm; rather, that’s what they eat and relieve themselves in, so in all, a large, grassy field is just home for them.

Of course, they can also live in a stable for short periods of time, and it’s a good idea to have one ready for them during rainy or other inclement weather. These stables should have stalls large enough for a rapidash to move comfortably from side to side—rapidash, not ponyta, because you never know if you’ll have an evolution on your hands. These stalls should be cleaned daily and stocked with fresh water and food (fodder, or hay and oats—rarely carrots and apples and never sugar cubes because these are all loaded with sugar that can disrupt the bacterial ecosystem of their digestive tracts). Also, if the weather is cold, give your ponyta or rapidash a blanket to stay warm. So no, they don’t live in libraries or wear dresses either. They do wear shoes, of course, but not the sort you see in the cartoon. They’re simply those bands of metal that a human needs to fix onto a horse’s hoof. (They also require daily maintenance.)

Ponyta and rapidash don’t have wings, so they pegasus type of ponyta unfortunately don’t exist. As for the unicorn type, those do in a way, as rapidash technically has a horn, but it can’t simply perform any kind of magic. It’s more that they can shoot beams of concentrated light, and even then, only if you use the TM system. Their fire attacks, on the other hand, actually come from the mouth because the fire gland for ponyta and rapidash is located in the throat (as it is for most fire-types), not the horn. Really, the horn of a rapidash is used more for impaling or jabbing than channeling attacks, so it’s much less … glittery than you would see in the show.

I know. It’s not as exciting as multicolored emissaries of friendship and love, but ponyta and rapidash are easy-going pokémon in their own right. While I wouldn’t recommend getting her a ponyta if she’s only seen the cartoon, maybe having her learn more about them through children’s books or by seeing one in person on a farm or at a breeding center might help her understand what real ponies are like. One of the great things about cartoons like My Little Ponyta is that they’re often the first step for young girls to gain an interest in pokémon; it’s just that they need the right materials and experiences to take the next step of learning what those pokémon are really like.

But if it makes things any easier, you can tell her that ponyta and rapidash do make wonderful friends.

Any tips on taking care of a pokemon that’s close to evolving?

Continue the usual sort of care you would give its current state, but ensure that it’s comfortable too. Some evolutions, particularly those for bug-type and reptilian pokémon, might be painful or otherwise uncomfortable, as their bodies begin to change and adjust before the full evolution occurs. Additionally, for most evolutions, there will be an adjustment period in which the pokémon will need a bit of time to get used to their new size or physiologies, so in general, it wouldn’t hurt to make them as comfortable as possible throughout the process. That means making sure they have plenty of easily accessible food and water for the days leading up to and through their evolution, as well as soft bedding and, in some cases, sturdy toys that can be clawed, chewed, or otherwise made to withstand destruction.

Also, this is something not a lot of trainers think about, strangely enough, but always do your research on your pokémon’s evolutionary stages. Furthermore, stock up on their needs. Evolved pokémon tend to need more food and space than their preevolutions, and in some rare cases, their needs may change completely. (You don’t take care of a huntail or gorebyss the exact same way you would a clamperl, for example.) Educating yourself and preparing beforehand will make the transition easier not only on your pokémon but also yourself.

Other than that, care is generally straightforward. Just be alert: your pokémon may be more excited or agitated immediately before or after evolution. Keeping a second pokémon at the ready to calm it down may help.

Best of luck!

Hey Bill! I do have a Porygon-z, and have taken all precautions to make sure it doesn’t wreck all the electronics in my house, such as confining it to an old smartphone. Is there anything else I should be aware of, other than its erratic behavior? Thanks!

Not really, no. As noted in the previous entry concerning care for the porygon line (http://bills-pokedex.tumblr.com/post/174025518056/hi-bill-i-wanted-to-ask-for-some-advice-about), raising a porygon or its evolutions is actually pretty easy so long as you have a working computer and are willing to run maintenance programs.

The only catch is, of course, its behavior, which can make it tricky handle. You may find that confining it to one device doesn’t always work, and getting it to stay still for routine maintenance may be even harder.

However, there are ways to get it to do what you need it to do. Positive reinforcement, for one. (That is, offer something that might appeal to it, such as a treat, a toy, extra minutes added to its training sessions, or some time occupying a video game.) Additionally, some porygon-z actually respond rather well to having a companion which can then herd them or otherwise talk them into behaving. (Pikachu tend to be popular for this, strangely enough, but porygon-z also respond well to most other electric-types short of the magnemite line.) If neither of these options are available to you, you’ll simply have to remember to be patient at all times. Eventually, your porygon-z will listen to you; it simply needs to wear itself out in most cases first.

Best of luck!

Hey Bill,

So I was lucky enough to find and befriend a Beldum that was hiding at our local recycling plant. It’s in great shape now and I’ve wanted to learn how to battle for a long time so we took to training. Everything started off just fine but Beldum seems to be slowing down and getting discouraged after using Take Down. I don’t know if I’ve been caring for it improperly or what’s going on but I don’t want to push Beldum farther than I should.


Bill: Well, Take Down literally does wear a pokémon down each use. You can help your beldum recover and avoid any permanent damage by ensuring you’re giving it proper care between battles. Feed it a high-mineral snack after each battle to help it rebuild its shell, and consider including supplements to keep its energy up, reinforce its immune system, and supply it with additional iron for rebuilding its body. Moreover, always polish it using mineral oil and a soft cloth. Never use an abrasive cloth or water.

Also, as counterintuitive as this might sound, break your training up into more manageable periods. If your beldum can’t go for a full hour, pull back and train it for half-hour, twenty-minute, or other easier increments. Give it at least five-minutes (preferably more) of rest between each session, then go at it again. If you try to do the whole hour, it’s more likely that your beldum will tire out more or hurt itself in a way that isn’t quite as easy to recover from.

Finally, keep in mind that lethargy may also indicate that it’s saving energy for an oncoming evolution. While there’s not much you can do to help it evolve beyond training, creating manageable training sessions and helping it recover from each one will keep its spirits up and encourage it to keep going until it evolves.

Best of luck!

Hey bill, Restaurant owner here again. I wanna say thanks for the suggestion. I’m already having my cooks work on reduced Sugar menu items, though i did have to knock some sense into one of my busboys who put Tamato sauce on a table instead of Tomato ketchup in hopes of dissuading further experiences like that pikachu that guzzled that whole ketchup bottle. By the way, are there any other pokemon with specialized dietary needs that might be a problem on my budget?

Not really. Granted, most pokémon have certain foods their entire species can’t eat (a big one is chocolate for many mammalian pokémon), but most trainers will already know this. It’s just important to have a portion of your menu dedicated to healthier (lower fats or sugars) and vegetarian options, as these are often safe for all pokémon (as well as humans, of course).

So, I’m visiting Johto and recently picked up an… unconventional Pokemon. It seems fond of me and gets along with the rest of my team, but I have no idea what I’m supposed to do, care-wise. Basically: any tips on caring for an Unown?

There are two important things you should know about caring for an unown:

1. Don’t turn your back on it. An unown’s powers are strange and mysterious, and letting your guard down around it is an invitation for equally strange and mysterious mischief.

2. Never let your unown within sight of another unown, especially a wild one. If that should happen, strange and mysterious mischief will be inevitable.

Other than that, you could quite literally stick your unown on a wall and leave it there, and it will likely be perfectly healthy and content.

(You may think that this is rather disrespectful of me to say, considering the fact that the unown were once minor deities in Johto, but to be fair, everything was once a minor deity in Johto. Some old cults simply died off sooner and more spectacularly than others. While it’s true that the Ruins of Alph is still a sacred site to Johtonians and while we do indeed take the messages left within its depths with extreme seriousness, the unown themselves are very much akin to the fae to us. We don’t worship them, but we do acknowledge their power and understand that bribery is an excellent way of keeping them out of our hair.)

If you do offer it more care than that—which wouldn’t exactly hurt, to be perfectly honest—it’s a pokémon with very simple needs. It doesn’t need to eat, but it will eat anything your other pokémon would eat if offered. Likewise with water. It doesn’t often need amusement or enrichment (as it’s often most content watching others), but if you wish, it’s often fond of puzzles. As the only move it can learn is Hidden Power, training should include both meditation (to develop its mind) and target practice (to hone its power and aim). It doesn’t need a litter box (don’t ask how it eliminates waste, as this is actually a mystery for researchers as well), and as for a bed … I wasn’t joshing when I said you can stick it on a wall. That’s where it’s most comfortable, and if you don’t do it, it will simply find the most comfortable spot to perch. It’s just heavily recommended that you select a spot for it, as it will otherwise often stick itself above its trainer’s bed. To watch them. All night long.

Probably the most interesting part of caring for an unown (besides the constant avoidance of being drawn into a bizarre alternate dimension) is figuring out the typing of your unown’s Hidden Power. You may be lucky and have an expert in the matter living right in your town. These experts can take a look at your pokémon and, after only one glance, determine what type they wield, and these readings are often pretty accurate if you’re working with a reputable reader. If, however, you don’t have access to a reader, it becomes a simple matter of taking your unown out and battling against as many different types as possible, then using process of elimination to figure it out. It’s actually quite exciting, and given that trainers offer a wide variety of pokémon to battle against, it’s an excellent opportunity to meet new friends.

Best of luck, anonymous!

Hey there, Bill! I recently did some crossbreeding between my female Alolan Ninetails and a male Ninetails from out of region, the two are getting along great and their first clutch hatched, with no visible health problems. I have a permit and everything is current, and when the pups where old enough I sold them for profit, but kept one, Lago, and he seems to have some type crossing as well. He’s very handsome, but how would you recommend caring for a Fire/Ice type? I want him to be comfortable.

This is surprisingly fairly easy, anonymous. A vulpix exhibiting unusual typing still requires the same basic care as literally any other vulpix; it’s just that they’re also tolerant to a wider range of temperatures than normal for either subspecies. In other words, you don’t have to go to extraordinary lengths to house or care for vulpix like yours. They’ll be just fine at room temperature. But it’s a good idea to discern which type it most closely battles like, as a true fire/ice vulpix doesn’t really exist when it comes to its abilities, and understanding your vulpix’s true type is important for development.

Also, as a disclaimer, while it’s true some breeders try to breed these sorts of vulpix intentionally (as they’re easier to care for), such crossbreeding carries with it risks of mutations that are unviable for life, so only do it if you know what you’re doing (and can do so in ethical conditions, of course).

how do you care for a flock of mareep/mareeps evolutions? is it safe to have a singular mareep? can they be indoor pets? any extra advice?

I’ll answer the simplest question first: unlike the animal sort of sheep, yes, mareep can live with just a trainer (although it’s better off in a team—which, incidentally, doesn’t necessarily have to include another member of the mareep line).

What they can’t entirely do is live indoors. Or, more accurately, they can’t really live in human living quarters. Human spaces are often too small or too crowded to suit a mareep’s needs. Instead, they often need a yard at minimum (a field preferably) with fresh grass or plants for them to eat. Furthermore, they’ll also need a barn (a small one with just enough room for a single mareep to move about without bumping into walls will do) lined with hay for resting at night and when the weather is too cold/wet for a mareep to be outside. It’s a good idea to include some sort of heating system for this barn, but in that case, space is of the utmost importance. For a single mareep, you may need to build a barn roughly the size of an average living room or larger. (The actual, specific recommendation is about sixteen to twenty feet. That would be per pen, if you plan on keeping multiple mareep. Every mareep needs its own pen within the barn you construct, and don’t forget a walkway for mareep to safely travel down as well.) Keep hay away from the heater, and keep the barn itself well stocked with water and food. And of course, try to avoid letting your mareep evolve inside the barn, as the initial shock of changing forms may cause it to bump into walls (or the heater).

Beyond that, mareep are strictly vegetarians, but they can essentially self-feed so long as they have access to fresh grass. Hay will do during the winter months, and if you’d really like to pamper your mareep, salad greens will work as well. Alternatively, there’s always mareep kibble if you’re a trainer traveling through areas where there isn’t much greenery to eat. If you feed your mareep kibble, it’s important to offer plenty of water, as kibble really isn’t as hydrating as greens are.

In terms of grooming, while you can safely bathe an ampharos and while you can use a showerhead and a washcloth with warm soap to handle a flaaffy, it’s not recommended that you groom mareep in the same manner. A washcloth to the face, ears, and legs to clean off dirt is fine, but the wool stores quite a bit of electricity and shouldn’t be soaked for this reason. (If your mareep is caught in the rain, herd it into its barn and turn on the heater to let it dry off naturally. Don’t worry about dirt or mold; these tend to be burned off via electric current eventually.) However, mareep absolutely need to be sheared every so often, as the wool will continuously grow until it interferes with a mareep’s wellbeing. Thus, mareep should be sheared twice a year. Most mareep trainers tend to do it either just before winter (as that will be right when mareep are herded into barns on a long-term basis, so the shearing gives them a little more space to move) or early spring (just before mating season) or both.

There are two ways to shear a mareep, though. The first way is to do it the way it’s done in the wild, and that’s through engaging in regular pokémon battles to burn off extra wool via mareep’s electric moves. If you’d prefer to keep the wool or if you’d simply prefer a quicker shearing, there’s the second way: shave it off. Many less confident trainers hire breeders to do it for them, but if you have a steady hand, a calming voice, and a pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves, it’s not that bad of a task. It’s just that the rubber is important. Wear not only rubber gloves but also rubber overalls—essentially rubber on anything you think might come in contact with your mareep’s wool.

Additionally, use mareep shears, not a regular set of shears. This is a device that collects electricity directly from your mareep’s wool and channels it through a set of combs and blades in order to essentially shave your sheep. (It’s also cased in a protective rubber coating to prevent that electricity from going anywhere other than the motor.) This device should help discharge your mareep wool and make it safer for handling.

To prepare, be sure to keep your mareep dry for ten hours prior to shearing, and don’t feed or water it either, not only to ensure that they’re comfortable during the shearing but also to avoid any nervous … mishaps. Thus, it’s a good idea to shear it first thing in the morning, then give it a proper breakfast as a reward for good behavior. Beyond that, shearing is a rather easy process for mareep because they’re actually more obedient and a bit more sentient than their animal “cousins,” and thus, you can simply tell yours how to sit and what you’re doing. Communicate frequently throughout the process, but hold your mareep steady. Firmly, not harshly. Yes, you will need to pull its skin to shear the wool off as closely and cleanly as possible, but couple everything you do with soothing words of encouragement. Shear as closely to the skin as your mareep can tolerate but don’t dig. Let the shearer do the work, then give your mareep a few oran berries and keep it inside for the next two days to heal.

Leave the wool out on the ground for a few hours after shearing if you plan on using it for electronics. Alternatively, leave it out for a day if you plan on spinning it into a sort of yarn that can glow in the dark for a few months. (The yarn also has a slight metallic effect, even after it loses its glow.) Whatever you do, do not wash clothing you’ve made with mareep wool in a washer until a couple months after it’s lost its glow. Hand-wash it, as you could risk frying the inside of your washing machine.

The shearing process can be done in about thirty minutes per mareep. Some trainers like to keep their flocks close (mareep somehow find entertainment in watching the process), but if you choose to do it with the flock out to field, it’s a good idea to keep a growlithe or other dog-like pokémon nearby to make sure they don’t wander. Sheep growlithe aren’t exactly mandatory for mareep care, but they’re very handy.

And of course, the shearing process becomes completely unnecessary as a mareep advances in stages. The wool stops growing in the flaaffy stage, and it falls out altogether when the pokémon becomes an ampharos. However, once they reach their ampharos stage, you’ll instead want to maintain their skin health. Bathe them regularly and apply moisturizers afterwards. Avoid their jewels, as these are actually electrified. (Don’t worry. They’ll shine just the same, even without needing to be polished. Ampharos will generally care for these jewels themselves.)

Beyond that, as always, be sure to train for at least an hour a day if you plan on competing in battles, tournaments, and so forth, but it (and playtime in general) isn’t entirely necessary if you plan on letting your mareep out into a field. They’ll generally amuse themselves (although it’s still recommended that you give them daily affection and care). If your mareep lives in a yard, though, yes, it’s a good idea to walk it. It won’t need a leash (mareep will generally follow you wherever you go), but they seem happier with a growlithe or other dog-like pokémon for companionship.

Best of luck!

Hey Bill, can you offer some tips for Mawile care? I got an egg from a Hoarder Situation Rescue, and she just hatched maybe a day ago? What are some Do’s and Don’t’s i should be aware of after she comes back from Nurse Joy? Sitting in a Pokemon Center as i type this on my pokegear waiting for Nurse joy to give her a once over before i start parenting in earnest XD. A concerned Mawile Parent

It’s certainly lucky that you’re getting this mawile as a hatchling, rather than as a pokémon who was raised in the aforementioned hoarding situation. Because of this, you won’t necessarily have to help it through any resulting trauma.

That having been said, though, you’ll of course want to follow the instructions Nurse Joy will give you on infant mawile care. Once it’s grown enough to be weaned and to live on its own, basic care should be fairly easy. It will need a soft bed and a room indoors, preferably one that’s a little on the cooler side if you live in warmer climates or climates in which it gets hot during the summer. Feed it a varied diet (mawile are omnivores) consisting of mostly berries, vegetables, and grains, with leaner meats for protein. Mawile also can be trained to use the toilet, although they typically use a litterbox (as with many fairy-types), and when grooming, be sure to polish your mawile’s horns with standard steel-type polish (as with all steel-types).

About the only differences between caring for mawile and caring for most other pokémon lies in, well, its jaws and nature. First and foremost, as a part-fairy, it’s important to be on guard around it at all times. It’s not as mischievous as, say, a clefairy or a mimikyu, but it’s still well known for deception and trickery. Never hand-feed it, in other words. And make sure you place everything that can fit in its horns out of reach.

As for the second part of that equation, its horns. Those must be well-maintained, and you do this by not only polishing the outside but also brushing the inside as you would teeth. Keep your mawile calm through the process, as challenging as it may be to do so. You may wish to distract it with music, a movie, or toys when it’s young, but it’s also possible to train it to consider such grooming to be pleasurable. That should take care of unintentional bites, but when it comes to intentional, you’ll want to wear heavy gloves at first as you work with your mawile’s jaws. Of course, it’s also important to teach it that biting you would hurt more than just a little bit, but when it’s young, it may be difficult to wean it off mischievous tendencies. Just have patience and reward your mawile whenever it displays positive behavior (sitting still while not biting you), and the job will eventually get easier as time goes on.

Best of luck, anonymous!