My Eevee recently evolved into a Flareon without my permission. (I don’t even know where he found a Fire stone) How do you care for a flareon without him burning down my house? I’ve never had a fire-type before.

Ah yes. Eevee can be quite tricky like that, especially if they’re particularly keen on one of their evolved forms.

That having been said, caring for a flareon is rather straightforward, anonymous. Use the exact same techniques as you had when your flareon was an eevee, just with minor alterations. For one, you will likely need more of everything: more food, more time spent training, larger toys, and so forth. Your eevee has spontaneously grown from a precocious, foot-tall ball of fur to an equally precocious, three-feet-tall ball of fur, and thus, you’ll want to accommodate accordingly.

The other change you’ll need to make is, of course, fireproofing everything. You may need to keep your flareon outside for the first few weeks. As eevee are not fire-types, yours has likely never wielded fire before now and will likely need some time to learn how. Giving him a safe environment away from your valuables and flammables would be the best way to do this. Just be sure that this safe area might also be shielded from the rain. (Perhaps consider giving him a place on a sheltered porch or building a specialized dog house on stilts or a platform to keep him out of the rain and away from yard flooding during rain.) Once he shows a reasonable amount of control over his new abilities, reintroduce him to your home carefully, but consider investing in fireproofing sheets (specialized, plastic-like sheets for new pet fire-type owners) to cover your furniture.

Best of luck, anonymous!

So my sylveon got out in the middle of the night, and well, got my neighbors umbreon pregnant. My neighbor couldn’t take care of the eggs nor the Pokémon so she gave them to me, which is fine but one of the eevees is Melanistic. Now he’s absolutely gorgeous but im wondering if there are any differences in the way I would take care of the other eevees compared to him?

Actually, no, anonymous! In fact, unlike albinism, melanism isn’t tied to any negative health conditions. Rather, it’s actually a favored trait among many pokémon, as in some cases, particularly among species with naturally brown pelts (such as eevee), the added pigmentation allows them to blend in better with their natural habitat, enabling them to become better hunters, foragers, or, well, hiders from predators. Additionally, melanin protects the skin from ultraviolet light, and some studies suggest ties between higher concentrations of melanin in pokémon skin and disease resistance. (Take Alolan rattata, for example. While it’s true that the rattata population adapted to urban life, some studies suggest that part of the reason why rattata in the Alola region are able to coexist with Alolan grimer is because they adapted higher levels of melanin in their pelts shortly before Alolan grimer finally adapted lower levels of bacterial growth themselves. In other words, the rattata that survived long enough to adapt to urban life in Alola were the ones that grew black pelts, rather than the ones that grew purple ones.)

Getting back to your eevee, though, there’s very little difference in the care you’ll need to give your melanistic eevee compared to the rest of its litter. If anything, you may need to keep an eye out for any aggression from the other eevee or other pokémon in general towards your melanistic eevee (as occasionally, members of the same litter that display different coloration—especially shininess—may experience bullying), but this is really only a distant possibility in terms of what might occur while raising your pokémon.

In other words, chances are you should be fine. Best of luck, anonymous!

Hello Bill! I’ve got an eevee drama. Recently, my neighbour has gifted an eevee egg to me (my friends says he has a crush for me, but he’s a kid, it’s impossible right?), and it’s the most adorable little thing you’ve seen. The problem it’s that there is no eevee formula in the pokemart because Customs problems and giving her raw miltank milk can cause intolerance. The recommended me to give her formula from another pokemon within the same egg group. Would she be allright with it? I’m from Alola

Strange. As eevee are actually native to Alola (and abundant on one of the islands, at that), you shouldn’t have any trouble finding eevee-specific formula. Moreover, formula is not typically an item seized by customs, as if processed correctly (that is, not laced with lead-based pigments, as some countries with less scrupulous quality control tend to do), formula contains nothing that would be considered harmful to the Alolan ecosystem or population. You may wish to ask again or look in larger supermarkets. If all else fails, try shopping on Akala Island, where eevee tend to thrive in the wild.

That having been said, using different formulas for baby pokémon tends to be trickier than using generic kibble for adults. Babies require a very precise balance of nutrition that varies greatly by species. However, if you absolutely must, you can give your eevee formula from a different species of pokémon, but (and this is a very important but), it can’t simply be formula for a member from the same egg group. Try to match up the other species with eevee as much as possible. Your target species should be a carnivore, preferably a canine, as these will have the same nutritional requirements (or as close to the same as possible) that your baby eevee will have. Rockruff or vulpix may be your best choices.

Good luck, and congratulations on the new addition to your family!

How do you care for a newly evolved Lycanroc? (Midday).

He just evolved, and I’m not familiar with his body language, or if this or that is normal. What toy’s he would like.. I would really enjoy the help.

Bill: Caring for a lycanroc (either of them) is very similar to caring for any other canine pokémon on the most basic terms. Namely:

For food, always remember that your lycanroc is primarily a carnivore. While he can eat grains, berries, and vegetables (try to limit fruits as much as possible, due to their sugar content), his natural diet would have consisted of small animals, birds, and fish, and thus, you’ll want to emulate that as much as possible. If you can’t, kibble will do just as well, but read the label carefully and buy a reputable brand.

For space, you’ll need plenty of it for a lycanroc. They’re by no means small pokémon, and they thrive when they’re given plenty of space to run about. If your backyard has some rugged landscape, allow your lycanroc to claim that as part of its space, but if you simply have a yard, that will do just as well. As a note, be sure to maintain this space, as your lycanroc will likely use it to relieve himself as well. (While, yes, pokémon dung can be used as fertilizer, not cleaning up after your lycanroc increases your chances of stepping in it or your lycanroc’s chances of trailing it all over your home.)

Your lycanroc should also be given a bed indoors, so he may have some sort of shelter during the rain. You may also wish to housetrain your lycanroc so he understands how to relieve himself on newspapers or at least tolerate rain in emergencies (and, well, not relieve himself indoors, of course). Don’t worry. Housetraining works exactly the same way as any other sort of training. It’s just that you’re simply teaching your lycanroc where to relieve himself, rather than how to use his moves.

On that note, lycanroc should be walked at least once a day, if not trained for at least an hour as a form of exercise. Ideally, he should be made to climb something (a pile of training rocks, for example, or a hill near your home) as a form of aerobic exercise similar to what he would receive in the wild, but if this isn’t an option, simply battling with him once a day should work. You can do so against trainers or against sturdy enough training dummies.

In terms of toys, lycanroc enjoy a wide range of dog toys, and those geared towards houndoom, arcanine, or stoutland work just as well as ones geared towards lycanroc specifically. (Some toy makers will advertise sturdier toys specific to lycanroc, but don’t fall for this! Every toy will likely be annihilated by your lycanroc, and ones for larger canines are just as safe.) Because the selection is so vast, it would honestly be best to experiment with your lycanroc in order to discover his preferences. Try taking him with you to a pokémart and have him pick the toys that interest him the most. Alternatively, there are excellent “box subscription” services for dog pokémon (such as Crunch Crate) that curate treats and toys for dog pokémon. These tend to be excellent for canine trainers who aren’t entirely sure what brands or types to try with their pokémon.

Finally, there is one rather important difference between lycanroc and most other dog pokémon, and that’s the fact that midday lycanroc are pack pokémon. (This is contrary to midnight lycanroc, which is exclusively solitary and should be handled with care when integrating into a team.) That is to say, they are among the most loyal dog pokémon in existence, second to perhaps houndoom, and as such, they thrive when placed in settings with multiple pokémon, preferably other (midday) lycanroc. It could thrive with just the company of its trainer, but the point is, it would be happiest if placed on a team.

As for his body language, yes, it’s normal to have an adjustment period after the evolution of a pokémon. It may take some time for you to familiarize yourself with your lycanroc’s habits, but be sure to note down anything that doesn’t quite seem right to you. Unfortunately, without specifics, I can’t really offer any advice on what anything might mean, but if you notice anything odd, you can always bring it up with your local Nurse Joy to get a definitive answer as to whether or not your lycanroc’s behavior is normal.

Best of luck, anonymous!

Hey, I was wondering. What’s the best way to raise a ghost/fire Marowak?

First and foremost, ensure you have plenty of space, preferably outdoors. Alolan Marowak pride themselves on their dancing, and dancing is, on top of everything else, both a form of communication and self-expression for them. Unfortunately, the fire that lights up the bone clubs integral to such dances is very, very real, and as such, keeping an Alolan marowak can be a bit tricky … or, more to the point, costly for your insurance company.

That said, a sheltered place outside (such as a yard with a canopy over part of it) will be sufficient enough. Your marowak doesn’t need to stay out there, of course, and it would be best to ensure it has a bed inside to keep it out of the rain, but at the very least, it should be able to use this space for practice and enrichment. You can also kill two pidgey with one stone (as it were) by also constructing a place where it can train in this same area: simply clear a spot, line it with dirt, and add targets or practice dummies (a large stone or a log will be sufficient) to allow it to practice both its physical fire moves and its long-distance club-throwing moves.

Beyond training, it should be noted that although Alolan marowak are ghost-types, they are not nocturnal. On the contrary, they very much enjoy sunlight, and they’re happiest when sunbathing. You may wish to set up a heat lamp by its bed in order to give it a place to rest. They are also primarily carnivorous in nature, and besides the usual berries most pokémon will eat, they should be fed a diet of live insects, poultry (including eggs), or fish. Alternatively, kibble will do just as well. (Note: Standard marowak kibble is just as suitable for Alolan marowak as specialty/“Alolan blend” kibble, contrary to what kibble companies may have you believe.) Finally when it comes to the basics, be sure to give your Alolan marowak a dish of clean water; it’s a grave misconception that marowak in general don’t need a lot of water due to their typing, which is why many people believe marowak’s expected lifespan is far shorter than it actually is.

One last note: Alolan marowak are far more loyal than standard variations, as the rugged landscape of their native habitats have forced the entire Alolan cubone line to form strong friendships very early. Keep an eye out for any possessive or “clingy” marowak and be sure to train them firmly but gently to avoid separation anxiety or violence towards ex-significant others. Most Alolan marowak will get along just fine with their own teammates and trainers, but they won’t take kindly to anything that harms the people or pokémon they care about.

Hey there Mr. Bill! I’m a student who’s been abroad in Hoenn for some time now. I’ll be moving back to Sinnoh in just a little bit, but not before making a quick trip through Kalos. My question is that I caught one of those neat little Baltoys that hang around old ruins here. Is there anything I should know before bringing the little fella along on my travels or before I settle back in Sinnoh again?

Luckily, baltoy are actually fairly easy to care for. As artificial pokémon, they don’t need food, water, or the like, although they may enjoy eating now and then. That is to say, it’s okay to give them poké beans, poké puffs, kibble, or so forth, but they won’t die if you forget to do so.

Beyond that, simply give your baltoy a level, solid surface to rest on as well as toys to amuse itself with (baltoy have no specific preference, so experiment with yours to determine what it seems to like), and it will be perfectly happy.

In terms of things to be aware of, be sure to include meditative training when honing your baltoy’s abilities. Its strongest techniques rely heavily on its telekinesis, so the more you strengthen that ability, the better your baltoy’s handle on its moves will be.

Additionally, try to avoid allowing your baltoy to come across another member of its species. Baltoy get along well enough with most pokémon, but for reasons we researchers haven’t fully figured out, when it spots another baltoy, the two will congregate together and begin vocalizing. The resulting noise tends to be ungodly.

Best of luck, anonymous!

(I don’t know if I asked this before, so I’ll do it again) Hello! I live in Malie City, but last weekend I was camping near of Alolan pokemon league and I found a newborn Sneasel, abandoned by its mother. I’m thinking about to keep it, but should I? I’m paraplegic and I only have a Phantump and a Mimikyu. If you think I should keep it, which cares does it need? Aclimatation, food, activities? Should I capture another pokemon to play with Sneasel?

It may be a bit difficult because sneasel are more accustomed to life on the mountain (specifically in the caves therein), as opposed to the sunny, tropical climate of the lower altitudes of Alola, but with the proper preparations, it may be possible. But first, as for whether or not you should adopt the newborn, it would be worth it if and only if you’re absolutely certain it was abandoned. Sometimes, a mother pokémon will run from its own offspring in order to draw a predator’s attention away from it, and dark-types may hide their kits and spend much of the day away from them to hunt without having to worry about their nests being raided. If you found this newborn out in the open and if the sneasel didn’t bother attacking you to draw your attention to her instead of the baby, then that’s a good indicator that the child is indeed abandoned. Likewise, if the mother hasn’t come back after a few hours, this, too, tends to be proof.

If you’re certain that the mother isn’t coming back, then yes, for the kit’s survival, it’s okay to adopt it. Once you make that decision, though, you’ll need to ensure that your home is ready. My advice would be to leave the kit at a pokémon center (which would be a good idea to stop at anyway so that a professional nurse may give it a once over to check its condition) and go home to prepare a room for it.

Remember that sneasel are nocturnal pokémon used to colder climates. Thus, you’ll need a dark room (one with curtains—the blackout sort isn’t necessary but is highly recommended—or a room without windows at all), preferably one with air conditioning or one of the cooler rooms in your home. As a note, it’s possible to invert a sneasel’s sleep cycle and train it to be diurnal, but frankly, for a growing kit, it’s best to allow it to follow its natural sleep schedule.

On that note, if you’re not nocturnal yourself, given your other pokémon, it would be a good idea to introduce the kit to your team early, especially mimikyu. As naturally nocturnal pokémon themselves, they may be able to provide valuable help for caring for sneasel even while you sleep. In particular, I would recommend teaching your mimikyu basic care skills and putting it in charge of the baby. By giving it in particular the rule of caregiver, you may be able to avoid making mimikyu jealous of the attention you give your sneasel; instead, it will feel like it’s an integral part of sneasel’s growth—perhaps even an adoptive parent. (Yes, it’s an incredibly good idea to word it as such to your mimikyu.)

Also, be sure you have a soft bed to emulate a sneasel nest, a litter box (for waste), soft toys, and plenty of formula. Eventually, your sneasel will need kibble (or meat and nuts, if you can provide them) as well as its own water dish, but as a newborn, it’s likely it will need milk instead unless Nurse Joy recommends otherwise. The soft toys are enrichment; eventually, you’ll want to move on to a scratching post and harder toys to destroy, especially as the sneasel’s claws grow in. Place these items in the room you designate as your sneasel’s, and you’ll be ready to bring it home.

Once home, the first few months will be exactly like caring for any other newly hatched pokémon. Be sure to feed it every three hours, allow it to sleep, and keep a close eye on it at first, as you would with any other baby pokémon. Follow the same schedule for weaning it onto solid foods as recommended by your Nurse Joy, and if your local Nurse Joy gives you advice on how to care for your particular sneasel, follow it.

Other than that, acclimation will of course be important. As it grows older, you may wish to expose it little by little to the world outside its room. Allow it first to adjust to temperatures by letting it explore the rest of your home, then the area around your home. If it looks uncomfortable, guide it back to its room and allow it to cool off. Make absolutely sure it gets plenty of fluids, and keep a close watch for any signs of heat exhaustion (or worse, heat stroke). If your sneasel seems disoriented or overly lethargic, or if it gets sick or loses consciousness, take it to the pokémon center. Most importantly, remember that heat is the harder of the two conditions for an ice-type to get acclimated to, so be patient and do it gradually and according to your sneasel’s comfort level. Then repeat the process for sunlight (i.e., gradually increase exposure until your sneasel is perfectly happy in sunlight).

As for alternative companions, your team may be sufficient enough, but if you wish and if you can support them, it may be helpful to obtain a member of the poliwag family from the nearby Malie Garden. These pokémon not only learn water moves naturally, but they can also be taught ice-type moves, either of which may help in keeping your sneasel cool. Additionally, meowth from the same location may be helpful in raising your sneasel, as that pokémon family shares many similarities to sneasel’s. (They’re mammals, they’re dark-types, they share similar diets, and they both rely heavily on claw-based attacks.) Be careful when obtaining partners to assist you in raising sneasel, however, as you do have your mimikyu to consider. Always be clear about your intentions, and perhaps consider working together with your mimikyu to select and obtain a suitable companion.

Best of luck, and potential congratulations to the new addition to your family!

I’m interested in getting a Sandygast to go along with the ghost-type pokemon I have so far. What do I need to get to make it a suitable living condition in my house?

Luckily, sandygast are extremely easy to care for. At the very minimum, they need a sizable sand pit to rest in (even a large sandbox will do). They don’t need to be fed, but some may still enjoy it, so offer food only if it sounds interesting to your sandygast. Change the sand every so often (regardless of whether or not you feed it) to clear out any waste products, and provide a few toys it can move without needing to move itself from its spot too much. Finally, always, always keep it dry during the rain; otherwise, it will become waterlogged and sluggish (at best) or unstable (at worst). Keeping it indoors at all times may be a good idea, but if this isn’t possible, simply ensuring that its sandbox is covered before the rain hits should be sufficient.

Does “watering” a plant pokemon involve more than simply providing enough drinking water?

It could. Usually, giving them enough drinking water in a dish is enough to keep them hydrated, but some—such as bellsprout and oddish—prefer to be rooted in dirt and watered as you would a houseplant, either instead of or in addition to providing water in a dish. Likewise, while the plant half of some pokémon (such as members of the bubasaur line) remain hydrated simply by sharing fluids with their hosts, it’s often more effective to water them as well.

Should I bathe furry warm blooded Ice type Pokémon like Sneasel and Alolan Vulpix with warm or cold water? I don’t want to make it uncomfortable for my Pokémon.

Typically, warm-blooded ice-types are best bathed in cold water, but it also depends on the pokémon’s preferences. Because they’re warm-blooded, they have better thermoregulation than cold-blooded (both biologically speaking and “as in, their blood is literally ice”), which means they may be able to tolerate higher temperatures. Spheal and dewgong with the ability Thick Fat, for example, may prefer lukewarm water, and perhaps as a holdover from their fire-type ancestors, some Alolan vulpix prefer warm baths. Start off with a cold bath for your pokémon, then increase the temperature if they indicate to you (through shivering, splashing about, or pawing at the faucet) that it’s too cold. Keep adjusting until you find your pokémon’s preference.

Also, keep in mind that some ice-types should not be bathed, even if they’re furry, unless they absolutely need it (either because they’re filthy, covered in a toxic substance, or already too sick to bathe themselves). For example, members of the sneasel line self-groom and should be left alone, and the swinub line, being part ground, should be given a dust bath instead.