How long do sawsbuck leave their young alone? I live in front of a forest and theres been a deerling in my backyard for over a day. This is unusual as they are normally scared of my houndooms, so I am a little worried that it could be abandoned.

Sawsbuck generally leave their young in safe areas for hours on end, actually, and if your houndoom have done nothing to harm the local wild pokémon, it’s possible that the sawsbuck still view your yard as a safe place to leave their young. It’s important to keep in mind that most of the time, young deerling are left behind so sawsbuck can journey into more dangerous areas to forage for food without having to worry about their young being picked off by predators (trainers included). You won’t normally see the mother sawsbuck until much later, after the sun has fallen and the area has gotten dark enough to move the deerling without being seen. In some cases, you may think the deerling has been left for over a day, but in actuality, the sawsbuck simply retrieved their young in the dark and left them again shortly before sunrise, when they’re far harder to spot by human eyes.

You’ll know if the deerling has been abandoned, however, if you see signs of orphaning, such as a dead sawsbuck by the road or in the forest. (Sawsbuck with young that can’t fend for themselves will do anything they can to avoid being captured by trainers, but it’s worth it to keep an eye out for visitors with a new sawsbuck on their team as well.) Alternatively, you can watch during the night for any sign of movement, and if, after a week, you still have not seen the slightest hint that the deerling are being moved, then it’s possible that they’ve been orphaned.

In the meantime, yes, keep your houndoom away from the deerling as much as possible. Otherwise, try to avoid interacting with the deerling unless you’ve spotted the above mentioned signs. Young deerling are rarely abandoned, and the last thing you’ll want to do is accidentally cause one to attach itself to you while its mother is gone.

How do pokemon choose their mates? And can they be attracted (not the move) to another simply because they have a pretty face?

It depends on whether you’re referring to a wild or a tame pokémon, anonymous. Wild pokémon typically choose mates based on suitability, which itself is actually a combination of factors, including hardiness, health, and physical attractiveness. Tame pokémon focus less on the first two factors and more on both physical and mental attraction (or, in other words, a combination of looks and personality, much in the same way humans choose their mates), largely because the need for a hardy mate is less important when a pokémon has someone to care for them.

Of course, beyond that, it also depends on the pokémon itself. For example, to psychic-types, intelligence or empathy may be seen as attractive traits, grass-types sometimes seek out the best-smelling mate, and male fighting-types, for reasons that are somewhat (but not entirely) beyond yours truly, are attracted most to females who can defeat them resoundingly in battle. And even then, what determines attractiveness to one member of a type may be different from the definitions held by all other members. For example, magikarp select mates who can propel themselves the highest while using Splash, which is something no other water-type looks for (seeing as Splash is otherwise not a particularly useful skill, generally speaking).

In short, yes, some pokémon can be attracted to a pretty face and not much else, but there are a wide variety of factors that go into what defines an ideal mate in each species.

How long does it normaly take for a wild bunnelby to settle down with a new trainer?

Generally speaking, a few weeks, but it depends on how well you care for your bunnelby and your bunnelby’s personality. Skittish bunnelby will obviously take a little more time to acclimate than those that are more relaxed, and the more you handle your bunnelby in its earliest days, the more skittish it will be (ironically enough).

When you first obtain your bunnelby, take it easy for the first three days. Allow it to become used to its poké ball and, if you’ve given it one, its hutch. Once it seems comfortable in both, begin the gradual process of allowing it to get used to both your home and you. Always let it make the first move; never reach out to grab it unless it’s in danger. Likewise, supply it with plenty of food, water, and distractions as usual, but be present (first at a distance, then gradually closer) as it interacts with these things. With enough care in this manner, it will be easier and quicker for your bunnelby to get used to you.

Of course, spaying and neutering your bunnelby helps too.

I noticed you get quite a few asks like “how to care for this pokemon”. Would you ever consider doing a brand new set of entries (or possibly updating existing entries) about how to care for each pokemon, or do you find it easier to simply wait for someone to ask? I understand if this would be a lot of work for you,it’s simply something I thought would be interesting!

Thank you for the suggestion, anonymous. I must admit that doing a series on pokémon care is something that’s crossed my mind recently, especially with the finite amount of material I have for writing straightforward pokédex entries. For now, my main focus is on general pokémon information (though I’d be happy to offer general tips on pokémon care at any time), and I plan on seeing how I feel about creating a set of information for domesticated pokémon once I run out of entries to write for the pokédex itself.

Nonetheless, thank you again for the suggestion, anonymous.

There’s a guy around town I often seen who always has a pretty beaten up looking Granbull with him. It has an obvious severe limp, rather torn up ears, and normally has fresh bruises whenever I see it. I’ve never seen him enter a pokemon centre to have it treated, and I don’t like to jump to conclusions, but I think it may be in trouble. Is there anything I can do to find out what’s happening or is it simply best to contact an officer?

Notify your local authorities immediately—not just your local Officer Jenny but also your local pokémon welfare agency. (The number is different in every region.) They’ll be required to investigate and determine whether pokémon abuse is happening or if the trainer is just particularly unlucky. Likewise, be sure to document what you’ve seen as well, as you may be asked to testify in court if it’s a case of gross pokémon abuse. If you can, try to take pictures of the granbull without its trainer noticing.

Whatever you do, however, do not engage directly with this man. You never know what he may do as a result, either to you or his granbull, and you also don’t want to risk alerting him to a potential investigation (and, therefore, any potential help for the granbull). That and there is always the potential that this isn’t a case of abuse on the trainer’s part but rather either fantastically bad luck or a case of past abuse (meaning the granbull could be a rescue). Allow authorities to figure out what’s going on, but do place a call as soon as possible.

Bill during a recent sparring match my Magnezone and Bisharp ended up getting stuck to each other and while they get along well, it’s not a very comfortable situation for either pokemon. I was hoping you might give me some advice on how to separate them without hurting them?

The key to separating them is getting your magnezone to discharge excess electricity. This may sound harmful to your bisharp, but as your magnezone’s abilities are fueled by its electric charge, it’s a necessary step to drain its electrical reservoir. However, if you do it correctly, this can be a perfectly harmless (albeit somewhat uncomfortable) experience for your bisharp.

Most pokémon centers actually have machines set up to do just this, as many ailments that plague the average electric-type involve an overabundance of electricity. Likewise, all Nurse Joys are trained in connecting a grounding machine to an electric-type’s discharge points (in your magnezone’s case, its magnets) to safely channel electrical energy into the machine alone.

However, if you don’t have access to a pokémon center, you can find a grounding machine in any pokémart. It’s heavily important to connect the grounding wires securely to your pokémon before running it, and do so with a pair of rubber gloves, not your bare hands. From there on out, follow the grounding machine’s instructions exactly, as not doing so may risk injury to yourself or your pokémon.

If you don’t have access to a grounding machine, you can potentially create one yourself, although this method is far riskier. Wind a length of copper wire to the ends of each of your magnezone’s magnets. Twist wires connected to the same magnet (for example, two copper wires connected to the left magnet, two to the right, and so forth) and wind the free ends of each of the wires around a grounding rod (or a pipe of conductive metal). The next step is highly important: dig a hole at least three feet deep and bury the rod. This is your grounder, and it, well, quite literally needs to be grounded in order to channel electricity to a safe area. Do not bury your rod in wet or marshy ground, and do not perform this task if the ground has recently been dampened with rain. This will also cause injury or property damage.

Once you’ve buried the rod, stand on a non-conductive surface (rubber mats or concrete, for example) and have your bisharp do the same. Then—and only after you’ve secured both yourself and your bisharp—order your magnezone to use its strongest electrical attack, focusing mainly on the copper wires to ensure the energy is channeled out of its body. Have it continue to do this until its electrical attack is noticeably weaker. By then, its magnetism should be weakened just enough for bisharp to pull away on its own. Once free, have your magnezone cut off its attack and wait for a few minutes. Do not allow your bisharp or magnezone to move, and do not move yourself. After a few minutes have elapsed (allowing the remaining electrical charge to dissipate, carefully unwind your magnezone from its grounding rod using a pair of rubber gloves and recall it. Then, ensure your bisharp’s armor has demagnetized by allowing it to touch metal. If it’s shocked or if the metal is stuck to it, give it another piece of metal and allow it to continue discharging until its armor is neutralized. Then recall it as well.

Finish off by taking both pokémon to the nearest pokémon center and having them examined by a professional. Make it clear that they’ve undergone a magnetic incident to ensure that the Nurse Joy in charge does not release the two at the same time.

Good luck, anonymous!

May I ask what pokemon would be good to give as a first Pokemon to my disabled younger brother. (He uses a wheelchair because he can’t move his legs at all.) We live in Unova, but my sister and uncle travel a lot so we could get Pokemon from other regions, too. He’s going to be eight.

First and foremost, at the risk of stating the obvious, never use a service pokémon as a starter. I know this should stand to reason, but many people give their wheelchair-bound or otherwise disabled pokémon they believe can perform both functions. The problem with doing so, however, is in the fact that service pokémon should never be allowed to battle, as a fainted or injured service pokémon is not a pokémon that can do its job. Thus, if its human needs it during or immediately after a battle, it won’t be available to perform, which rather unfortunately defeats its purpose as a service pokémon.

That having been said, most likely, your brother should consider getting a service pokémon in addition to a starter, and he certainly can do so without having the former apply to his six-pokémon limit. That is to say, your brother can have a service pokémon in addition to a full team of six, and in that case, which one he chooses should be specific to his case. Very likely, he can work with one of several government or medical organizations to determine which one would be the best fit for him.

With all of that in mind, which starter would be best for him depends on what his interests are and whether or not your sister or uncle can get quite literally any pokémon for him. I do recommend against more energetic pokémon, such as fighting-types or some fire-types, however. While your brother may be able to handle these as he continues on his journey, giving him one early on may pose a difficult challenge, as he will be new to traveling and battling on his own. Energetic pokémon, particularly those of the fighting-type, typically demand rigorous training routines in rougher terrain, and they may not understand the limitations of their own trainer. There have been cases of more experienced trainers with limited mobility figuring out how to balance their limitations with their pokémon’s needs, but this usually comes after years of trial-and-error and, well, raw experience.

By contrast, however, psychic and grass pokémon tend to be less demanding in that department, as their abilities are more meditative or internally-focused. Thus, they require less vigorous physical training and more internal growth and meditation, and these involve training routines anyone can keep up with. In fact, a psychic-type’s need for meditation and mindfulness exercises may be important for your brother’s own development as a trainer. Unova actually has an excellent choice in the form of munna (who, itself, is a formidable battler), as well as solosis and gothita, but ralts is an excellent choice as well. Should you choose a grass-type (which don’t so much meditate as quietly and contemplatively absorb sunlight for the sake of sustenance), most grass-type starters except snivy work well, as do oddish, petilil, budew, lotad, and seedot. (I would, of course, not recommend pokémon that have a tendency to drift on the wind, namely hoppip or cottonee.)

Of course, ultimately, you’ll want to take into consideration what he wishes to train as well. If he does want to train fighting- or fire-types, there are certainly calmer members of either classification you may consider. The point is, don’t give him something that would be too demanding or challenging right away.

I wish you and your brother the best of luck, anonymous. May his journey be filled with wonder.

Last week, my sylveon (rescued as an eevee about 7 years ago) and I encountered her original trainer. (Long story, rather not talk about it). Since then, she’s been rather clingy. Any advice on how I can reassure her that I would never replace her?

Do as you’ve already done for the past seven years, anonymous.

There is a lot to be said about routines, and in this case, they may be more important than ever. Going about your day as you usually do, complete with all the routines that you’ve always performed to maintain her mental health, will tell her that nothing has changed in the years she’s been with you, including how much you care for her.

While committing yourself to the same routine as always, consider adding a few more notes of affection to what you do. Set aside a day or time to give her more affection than usual. Give her a treat, groom her, or simply take her for a walk to someplace new. If she enjoys battling, consider strengthening your bond with her by entering a tournament or simply engaging in a few more battles than usual. If she doesn’t enjoy battling, allow her to help out about the house, comfort you when you are struggling, or generally take an integral role in your home life. Show her that she is still an important part of your life and that replacing her is far, far from your mind.

In short, the main thing to keep in mind is that she’s been important to you all along, so focus on doing all that you can to remind her that you have every intention of treating her with as much love as you had since you rescued her.

What are the red pinkish shard things on the Ralts family’s heads/bodies? What do they do

Those are their horns, actually. Every member of the ralts family has crystalline horns that act as psychic amplifiers, much in the way that kadabra and alakazam’s spoons or spoink and grumpig’s pearls do.

This is why it’s generally considered impolite to downright dangerous to touch those horns.

Without permission, anyway.

(No, this is not an opportunity to “kinkshame” the people in the notes.)

im the proud trainer of a lovely little mawile, but im afraid i might have spoiled her a bit too much – she’s developed separation anxiety. she never even wants to go in her luxury ball anymore, she just follows me around. is this a concern?

It depends on how old she is. If she’s particularly young, this is actually rather normal behavior. However, it can and should be corrected to maintain her mental health. This behavior tends to be unusual in older pokémon (generally speaking), especially if it’s sudden. If your mawile is older and this behavior has only recently started, it’s imperative that you rule out other causes of stress before proceeding. As I’ve mentioned a few times on this blog, sometimes a new move or a new teammate can cause extreme stress, and it’s up to the trainer to reassure their pokémon that all is well. Alternatively, she may be trying to tell you that something is legitimately wrong with your home—as in, there is a legitimate threat—so it may be prudent to check for any specific behaviors (or behaviors that indicate that she is reacting to something specific).

If your mawile is most definitely suffering from separation anxiety, regardless of whether your mawile’s case is mild or severe, counterconditioning and desensitization are the keys to helping her stability.

Begin by establishing a routine for leaving. Whenever you leave the house (or even her sight), give mawile a clear cue that you need to go temporarily. This can be as simple as jingling your keys, or it could be as direct as telling her, “Mawile, I’ll be back soon.” Once she associates that cue with your leaving, she’ll be able to anticipate these absences.

Additionally, give your mawile an item of yours (such as a worn piece of clothing or something she would associate with you) to remind her of you in your absence. It may also help to take the object back when you return so your mawile will be able to associate the act of you giving her an item with a temporary leave. She will, in other words, begin to see this act as a sign that you will be back for this item—and, by extension, her.

Don’t just give her an item of yours, either. Also give her a toy or leave out a treat. If you leave something just for her, then she’ll also associate your absences with something good, and thus, she’ll be more likely to relax and even look forward to them.

Of course, you’ll also want to use positive reinforcement with all of this as well. Whenever you come home to find that she took your absence well (or comparatively calmer than she is right now), give her a treat. The more you do this, the more you can train her to understand that your absences are not a bad thing.

Finally, above all else, do not start by leaving her for hours on end. Use the above steps on even minor separations. For example, if you need to spend a few minutes in another room but don’t want her to follow, give her a cue, a toy, and a token, then give her a treat if she takes it well. Once she’s able to handle a few minutes, proceed to leave her alone for an hour, then a few hours, then for a full workday. Likewise, increase your time away from her more and more, even if the problem is just that she refuses to reenter her poké ball for fear of being separated from you. Until she can handle longer periods of time away from you, you will still need to take her with you wherever you go or leave her in the care of someone she trusts. As with helping to relieve stress in any pokémon, it will take time, patience, and the right amount of care and reassurance to help her.

Good luck, anonymous.